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Lambchop With A Renault Axis Here...

WAGON_BOY

By WAGON_BOY,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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jidge Collaborator

jidge

Posted
Posted

I have been enquiring about tyres and wheels lately

I'm not sure if rolling stock is the same for AXIS, but to fit an ARX

You need 245/40R20 or 245/45R19

Best (cheapest) cheapest option seems to be Falken 452. at around $280 per tyre for the 19's and a bit over $400ea for 20's.

They are pretty odd sizes and from there it onll goes up 5,6,700 per tyre!!!! ouch.

I was set on 20's but those prices are putting me off.

255/40R20 would only be 5mm bigger (legally you can go 15mm difference max) but not sure if these would be too wide for an 8 inch rim?

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WAGON_BOY
WAGON_BOY

just ordered some 18" Koya RG Tek's with Hankook Z222 semi slicks

Daleo
Daleo

Did you check the muffler bearings? Also, last time i was in your car; there was definitely a loose nut behind the steering wheel...

WAGON_BOY
WAGON_BOY

Haven't updated for a while not that I've really done much to it lately but did take it out to SMSP South Circuit again and managed to knock off another second off my lap time with a 1:08.26.

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WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

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nope its different i have 245/40/18's

so 245/30/20's will be fine or 245/35/19.....

20's kuhmo 31's are $300.

20's continentals are $450.

the 19's have sh!tloads of options

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zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
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now that you have cleaned the throttle body, did you perform the ECU reset procedure? youll probably need to

any transmission cooler that you can fit in will work :)

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WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

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now that you have cleaned the throttle body, did you perform the ECU reset procedure? youll probably need to

any transmission cooler that you can fit in will work :)

the cars still up on ramps LMAO :(

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Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

This is what I have on my car, very neat unit.

How easy is this one to install Dale? Does the kit come with enough hose / connectors / adaptors etc, or is a vist to the local parts store still required?

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andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

How are you guys running your Trans cooler?

1) Through the Radiator and then the Trans cooler

or

2) Through the Trans cooler and then the radiator.

I ask, as I have seen a very good argument put forward a while back that by doing it the 2nd way the trans is up to the correct operating temp sooner when cold and is not prone to being too cool as it is regulated by the motor temperature.

I am using the 1st method but wonder if the 2nd method has more merit.

Cheers

Andy

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Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's an interesting theory Andy.

I wonder how long it takes to pump all the oil in the trans thru the cooler/s? If it cycles all the oil in a short time (say a few minutes), then I doubt it would make a measuable difference.

If the oil moves around really slowly, then it might gain some heat from the radiator before moving into the transmission.

Have you found your gear changes to be any more sluggish, or taking much longer to get up to temp, since installed the cooler?

Edited by Commsman
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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

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How easy is this one to install Dale? Does the kit come with enough hose / connectors / adaptors etc, or is a vist to the local parts store still required?

Pretty easy, but I also made a Stainless sheetmetal mount that entirely supports the cooler and also ducts air into it. I mounted mine on the extruded bumper reo with some nutserts rather than hanging it from the rad support. I'd buy their optional reducer fittings (2 off) and I'd also go and buy some spiral wrap to protect the hoses across any sharp edges. Some people use convoluted tubing because it's cheaper, but it's much harder to trace a split hose once its fully covered. The way I ran my hoses (no cutting holes) I needed around 2 1/2 metres of hose. Go to a hydraulic specialist for the spiral wrap ($20 /metre) and also for Auto trans line.

How are you guys running your Trans cooler?

1) Through the Radiator and then the Trans cooler

or

2) Through the Trans cooler and then the radiator.

I ask, as I have seen a very good argument put forward a while back that by doing it the 2nd way the trans is up to the correct operating temp sooner when cold and is not prone to being too cool as it is regulated by the motor temperature.

I am using the 1st method but wonder if the 2nd method has more merit.

Cheers

Andy

I use method 2; for the reasons Andy mentioned and also it reduces the heat load you drop into the radiator, as it will have shed a lot of heat through the cooler first.

Edited by Daleo
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Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

That's an interesting theory Andy.

I wonder how long it takes to pump all the oil in the trans thru the cooler/s? If it cycles all the oil in a short time (say a few minutes), then I doubt it would make a measuable difference.

If the oil moves around really slowly, then it might gain some heat from the radiator before moving into the transmission.

Have you found your gear changes to be any more sluggish, or taking much longer to get up to temp, since installed the cooler?

OK.....on this ....I had found that my gearbox was a little sluggish on it's changes and lockup while cold....remembering that I have a PWR + a bigger trans tank in the radiator. After a little playing on Saturday night ph34r.gifI found that once the gearbox got really hot the shift's were quicker and the lockup was better.....didn't stop me bouncing of the limiter after shifting at 4,500rpm though!

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

OK.....on this ....I had found that my gearbox was a little sluggish on it's changes and lockup while cold....remembering that I have a PWR + a bigger trans tank in the radiator. After a little playing on Saturday night ph34r.gifI found that once the gearbox got really hot the shift's were quicker and the lockup was better.....didn't stop me bouncing of the limiter after shifting at 4,500rpm though!

What kind of playingwhistling.gif...

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

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A couple of test launch's that even surprised me.......a lot!!!!!!!!cool.gif.....lag's no issue....traction is though!!whistling.gif

Go the Nangers eh?

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Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Pretty easy, but I also made a Stainless sheetmetal mount that entirely supports the cooler and also ducts air into it. I mounted mine on the extruded bumper reo with some nutserts rather than hanging it from the rad support. I'd buy their optional reducer fittings (2 off) and I'd also go and buy some spiral wrap to protect the hoses across any sharp edges. Some people use convoluted tubing because it's cheaper, but it's much harder to trace a split hose once its fully covered. The way I ran my hoses (no cutting holes) I needed around 2 1/2 metres of hose. Go to a hydraulic specialist for the spiral wrap ($20 /metre) and also for Auto trans line.

I use method 2; for the reasons Andy mentioned and also it reduces the heat load you drop into the radiator, as it will have shed a lot of heat through the cooler first.

Hey Dale, thanks for the suggestions on extras. Have you posted a pic of your custom mount / air duct? I would like to see what you've come up with.

I think method 2 is the way to go and your reason above makes a lot of sense. Previously I was only considering implications when cold, but of course it is more important to consider what happens when hot since that is the most common state.

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