Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Location: NSW: Regional

Postcode: 2444

Odometre: 80,000 kilometres

Asking Price: $25,000

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Not Suitable

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0467505670

Extra Information:

1992 S13 Silvia, Orange with RB26DETtt conversion

Orange with a very faint Gold Pearl

RB26DETT conversion - 60,000 km on engine

New N1 water pump

New N1 Oil Pump

idle bearing and tensioner bearing replaced

Garret GT2860RS - 5 turbos(rated at 360hp each)

Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears w/ Trust Timing Belt

RB25DET gearbox

OS GIKEN Twin Plate Clutch (brand new, less than 1000km)

KAAZ 2WAY LSD (very Fresh, even have receipts)

SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator

CUSTOM Stainless Intercooler Piping

Twin HKS Intake Pod setup

BOSCH 044 External Pump

External Surge Tank

ASE Polished header tank

TRUST 600x300x115 Front mount

Custom twin 3" front pipe

KAKIMOTO cat back exhaust with Titanium look tip

5 Stud Hubs

R32 Skyline GTST 4 pots up front 2 pots up back

BREMBO front discs

PROJECT Mu Street Pads front

TEIN HE Drift Spec Coilovers

BRIDE ZIEG III low max seats

Matching BRIDE interior trim on doors, glove box, mats & gear boot

NARDI swede steering wheel

SAFETY 21 HALF CAGE

CUSCO strut braces rear

CUSCO Sway bar rear

HICAS Lock Bar

HID Head Lights

Apexi RSM

DEFI White Face Boost Gauge, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp

PIVOT Security Start Button

TRUST Gear Knob

Boot Mounted battery

Factory nismo AERO front bar

Volk/Rays Engineering TE37 Rims

18x8.5 +30 front

18x9.5 +40 rear

With 15mm bolt on spacers all round

GTR Style grill

NO A/c condenser and lines removed

NO power steering

6 months nsw rego, engineered. 225 semi slicks on front and rear, front bar has some paint flaking.

Looking for $25,000, have spent close to 15 on just engine conversion in last 3 months.

Possibly interested in a GTR, or an EVO 7 or 8, maybe an S15 if its nice. hit me up with the offers, cheers everyone

Need a nice stockish daily car that i can travel in for work, or cheap car with cash my way so i can buy a reliable daily and still have a toy

Text or call 0467505670 or email [email protected]

check my topics for pics ect, its LEWYTHEFLYS13 from ns.com old car and its alot f**king faster now, whinging bitch's need not apply

post-40848-0-93184300-1300492558_thumb.jpg

yes in the photo it has a high mount, that was on the rb20, this comes with a rb26 now...

  • 1 month later...

Price drop to $22,000 negotiable

really need this gone, i am extremely negotiable at 22k for that reason.

can remove wheels and seats to lower price further again.

new photos tonight

URGENT

0467505670

Still for sale guys

THIS IS NOT SHOW CAR, please remember this car is 19 years old now.

Built to be reliable, bulletproof and to be driven hard, not to be trailered to car shows .

Must Go

advertise it on boostcruising man u will get heaps more interest- ive had my r32 on here 4 like over a week n only 1 call,, i put it on boost and ive had over 15 calls today.thumbsup.gif

buyer pulled out, to many dreamers out there, Serious Price drop $18500

that is a $7500 price drop since i first advertised car, welcome to any test and inspection i guarantee it will pass, you cannot even begin to gather parts to build this car for that price. it must go as i am seriously close to missing out on buying the car that i want (track only)

0467505670

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...