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Up for grabs is a Tommy Kaira Body Kit that came off my GTR

Includes

Front Bar With all metal grill pieces and White lense indicators

Side Skirts pieces both sides with grill

Rear Pods

Also included are some front brake air tunnels

Over all condition is very good. will need a paint

I just had front edge of the front bat repaired and is in undercoat.

$600

Blitz Wheels 17x9 off my GTR

3 out of the four have gutter rash but are in structually good condition, no buckles or cracks

Tyres are sumo's 245/45/17's lots of tread but 2 have wear on the inner edge

$500

Apexi Pod Filters, These are in great condition

Includes mounting brackets

$250

I also have a spare front re-enforcement bar for the R33 for sale

$50

R33 Gtr clutch fan also in good condition

$30

PM me or email [email protected]

Parts are located in FerntreeGully for pickup.

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Price Drop Apexi Pods $220 Delivered

Wheels $250 3 are 9.5" and 1 is 9" (Don't ask, can't believe someone would put these on a car... might make some nice trailer wheels :)

Front Bar $350

rear spats/pods $100

Wheels $250 3 are 9.5" and 1 is 9" (Don't ask, can't believe someone would put these on a car... might make some nice trailer wheels :)

if you are referring to the Blitz Wheels, i'll take them...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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