Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im building a rb26 got my gtr

car has a aurtronic ecu and cdi

has garret -5 turbos

555cc injectors

im wanting to build a reliable hard reving gtr which doesnt spin bearings

wanting 300plus kw at the wheels maybe 350

has a os triple plate clutch

just after some help on mods to motor oil issues etc head work? cams? pistons rods needed.

maybe someone near newcastle to help or build

can the gearboxs handle it drive shafts etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

Have a good read of the 'oil surge', 'broken N1 oil pump' and 'breather' threads for alot of the info you need on oil controll issues.

At 350rwkw, dont get too caught up with internal modifications... Get the engine prepped and built by an experienced RB builder, keep everything stock exept a set of forged pistons, oil pump (and matching crank collar) and set of drop in cams. Everything else gets measured, machined, ballanced and prepared correctly.

Get the biggest sump extension you can find/afford, a good oil pump (nitto seem to be the best option for the money), enlarged oil return galleries, block restricters, mines style rocker baffles and an accusump (if your budget allows).

If your going to rev it 8k+ invest in a good crank ballancer.

Your going to need an external 044 at a minimum or larger, bigger injectors and I would invest in a duel entry fuel rail.

Two rb20det afm's are the same size as Z32's but they plug directly into the rb26 loom and have enough resolution for 400rwkw-

I broke my first GTR box (3rd gear) at around 380rwkw... That was with an R3C (os tripple) clutch- For 350rwkw I would sell the OS clutch and buy a Jim Berry full monty, it will help the gearbox last longer. The rest of the drive line will be fine.

Contact Paul from Red R Racing for engine building etc...

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5721159
Share on other sites

if you want this to be 'hard revving' you will need:

valve springs (singles ok, but doubles much better if you can afford them)

while your doing them get some baby cams to open the engine up a bit at high rpm and get the valve clearances set too (important if you want to spin it hard)

get a good balancer. N1 balancer is a minimum, ATS or Ross is better still

get the basic rods/pistons/bearings kit like t04GTR mentioned above, and get them weight balanced too

fit a small oil feed restrictor, 1.1mm if you are going to be revving it.

good oil pump is a wise idea too.

big sump too since you are going to rev it

with all that gear 9,000rpm should be a walk in the park.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358007-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-5722937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...