Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers bud. Hope this thread enlightens others. Glad your happy with the 71. I've decided on the 76 with 52t and will order tomorrow or we'd. Will post up the info and results for future reference when I get it

Thanks

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...

will scan dyno sheet soon.

ended up making 270 @ 16psi

feels great, full boost by about 3800 with small can actuator. will be great with poncams and big can

freaking love it!!!!

big thanks to Willall and AM Performance

If its a "real" GT3076R 52T it may convince a few people thats its a better thing than the 56T version .

To be fair making 270kw (GT3071/GT2835s can make that power) with full boost at 3800rpm is no way near being a compelling arguement in the direction of it being a better thing than the 56T.... its spooling about the same as a 56T but has less flow potential.

To be fair making 270kw (GT3071/GT2835s can make that power) with full boost at 3800rpm is no way near being a compelling arguement in the direction of it being a better thing than the 56T.... its spooling about the same as a 56T but has less flow potential.

*lithium double checks his turbo id tag*

*finds he actually has a 52T.....*

post-43588-0-69551300-1306461484_thumb.jpg

for me i probably would have been happy with either of the turbos. but the 52t is what i went with to be a little different, and its great. hey, the 56t may be exactly the same. As you can see 270 @ 16psi, hits nearly 18 in mid range. im thinking big can actuator and a set of poncams should be additional fun. tag on the turbo that i wrote down was 700382-10 . once the big can arrives well play around with the boost controller a bit more. any questions or comments welcome. All i know is its fun!!

i have also included a picture of the AM Performance dump pipe before it was polished. can get you a better pic if needed

post-71986-0-62550300-1306488465_thumb.jpg

post-71986-0-56630900-1306488516_thumb.jpg

Id be very happy with that. You can pull a bit more fuel out of it and can certainly wind in a bit more boost.

The big can actuator might also bring things on a reasonable amount earlier also, which would make it even better.

Congrats.

  • 7 months later...

never really updated this. well here it was as of a few weeks ago. currently sourcing bigger gate springs and going e85 in the next week or so

Been playing around with the car of late.

previously had

269@ 18psi falling off to 16 (263 run printed)

Nismo 555 injectors

greddy profec b

Garrett 3076 52t .82 internally gated 1 bar actuator

Tomei Poncams

98 octane

usual front mount and 3" exhaust

z32 afm

changes

3076 52t with .63 rear

Tial 44mm external gate

made 236 @ 15psi falling to 14 (no boost control other than the spring in the gate)

*there was no tune done with the new rear set up due to going e85 in the next month or so

verdict

boost comes on a LOT earlier, but no issues with traction. I do miss the power in the top end though, really punches coming out of corners.

plans

E85 + 18psi + 740cc injectors should see me back around the 270ish mark and be back to being awesome with great response. anything more and it does start to become unusable. when the car was making 270 it was great on track, but really lacked low end pull

also worth noting a few friends have the 56t version with identical set ups, the 52t has no where near the high pitched spool noise as the 56t, it does try though

dynonovember.jpg

This was the kind of result I was hoping to see on an RB25DET with the 52 compressor trim GT3037/GT3076R - and with the 0.63 AR turbine housing .

Corky Bell said years ago that you can't have good response down low and that meaty top end with the one turbine housing . You have to make your own decision on which compromise you want , mine will be the one that suits what I do with my car most of the time which is not using the meaty top end so much .

Possibly the saddest thing is that Garrett unlike HKS never made a 0.73 AR GT30 turbine housing and the one HKS do make has a GT28 flange and no integral wastegate .

Right at the bleeding edge the 56 trim GT37 compressor in the 0.60 AR T04E housing can churn enough air for about 540 Hp but I doubt you'd get near that without the 1.06 AR turbine housing and a pretty big exhaust . Besides I reckon it would be laggy on an RB25DET .

Personally I don't think much of the 71.1mm or GT35 compressor wheel teamed up with the GT30 turbine . This is not to say they are an unworkable combination but I don't think there is anything brilliant they can do given a choice of turbos . Someone here said differently but I have never seen

a GT3071R with a port shrouded compressor housing , they normally have a plain snout 0.50 AR T04E housing ant I've never seen a port shrouded 0.50 E one .

The GT37 52T compressor is the one HKS specified when they though things could get laggy . It was an option for SRs and in twin form on RB26s .

I don't see the point of having compressor capacity you don't intend to use so for all round IMO the 52T GT37 compressor looks pretty good on an RB25 . At least with these the worst you may have to do is change turbine housings if its too laggy or the top end not to your liking .

Turbos aside you can do things like headwork and bump the CR a little to give it a bit more low down engine only torque . If I was rebuilding one I'd use the Neo head and pistons to suit because I think the more compact chambers was probably aimed at better lean running detonation resistance . Bit more timing bit better burning bit closer to the boost threshold etc etc .

Its all fine till the wheels spin then the AWDs eat you ...

A .

Well hopefully the e 85 tune will be Monday. Planning on fitting my new gate with 18.8 psi spring and getting a power run so I can go back to back with e85 againt pump. Imo the .63 rear ex gated is perfect for the rb25. I'm hoping to nudge 300rwkw with e85 and 19psi

With external wastegates there is always the opportunity to adapt GT28 flanged GT30 turbine housings , the hassle is moving the turbo out further and altering plumbing to suit .

Also search the Mafias threads/posts because he claimed to have I think ~ 320 Kw with a 56T GT3037/GT3076R in a 0.63 IW GT30 housing .

He used WMI which can be arguably simpler than high Ethanol content fuels .

A .

Given with E85 you should be able to make 300kw even with a GT3071 I see no reason to go for a 76 unless you want >300kw. I see no issue with screwing a bit more boost in, I mean why would you stop with the 3076 anyway, you'd just keep screwing more boost in to make more power.

Matt from nistune made 300kw with poncams and a neo rb25 with a 0.82 internal gate 3071 on BP98! Probably the best result I've ever seen, was done at morpowa here in Adelaide by Pete who is also from Nistune, he reckons the dyno is far from happy.

Matt does have very high quality parts on his car, proper jap intercooler and everything else is not cheap.

If you go on the nistune forums you can see the dyno sheet and discussion surrounding it.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...