Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers bud. Hope this thread enlightens others. Glad your happy with the 71. I've decided on the 76 with 52t and will order tomorrow or we'd. Will post up the info and results for future reference when I get it

Thanks

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...

will scan dyno sheet soon.

ended up making 270 @ 16psi

feels great, full boost by about 3800 with small can actuator. will be great with poncams and big can

freaking love it!!!!

big thanks to Willall and AM Performance

If its a "real" GT3076R 52T it may convince a few people thats its a better thing than the 56T version .

To be fair making 270kw (GT3071/GT2835s can make that power) with full boost at 3800rpm is no way near being a compelling arguement in the direction of it being a better thing than the 56T.... its spooling about the same as a 56T but has less flow potential.

To be fair making 270kw (GT3071/GT2835s can make that power) with full boost at 3800rpm is no way near being a compelling arguement in the direction of it being a better thing than the 56T.... its spooling about the same as a 56T but has less flow potential.

*lithium double checks his turbo id tag*

*finds he actually has a 52T.....*

post-43588-0-69551300-1306461484_thumb.jpg

for me i probably would have been happy with either of the turbos. but the 52t is what i went with to be a little different, and its great. hey, the 56t may be exactly the same. As you can see 270 @ 16psi, hits nearly 18 in mid range. im thinking big can actuator and a set of poncams should be additional fun. tag on the turbo that i wrote down was 700382-10 . once the big can arrives well play around with the boost controller a bit more. any questions or comments welcome. All i know is its fun!!

i have also included a picture of the AM Performance dump pipe before it was polished. can get you a better pic if needed

post-71986-0-62550300-1306488465_thumb.jpg

post-71986-0-56630900-1306488516_thumb.jpg

Id be very happy with that. You can pull a bit more fuel out of it and can certainly wind in a bit more boost.

The big can actuator might also bring things on a reasonable amount earlier also, which would make it even better.

Congrats.

  • 7 months later...

never really updated this. well here it was as of a few weeks ago. currently sourcing bigger gate springs and going e85 in the next week or so

Been playing around with the car of late.

previously had

269@ 18psi falling off to 16 (263 run printed)

Nismo 555 injectors

greddy profec b

Garrett 3076 52t .82 internally gated 1 bar actuator

Tomei Poncams

98 octane

usual front mount and 3" exhaust

z32 afm

changes

3076 52t with .63 rear

Tial 44mm external gate

made 236 @ 15psi falling to 14 (no boost control other than the spring in the gate)

*there was no tune done with the new rear set up due to going e85 in the next month or so

verdict

boost comes on a LOT earlier, but no issues with traction. I do miss the power in the top end though, really punches coming out of corners.

plans

E85 + 18psi + 740cc injectors should see me back around the 270ish mark and be back to being awesome with great response. anything more and it does start to become unusable. when the car was making 270 it was great on track, but really lacked low end pull

also worth noting a few friends have the 56t version with identical set ups, the 52t has no where near the high pitched spool noise as the 56t, it does try though

dynonovember.jpg

This was the kind of result I was hoping to see on an RB25DET with the 52 compressor trim GT3037/GT3076R - and with the 0.63 AR turbine housing .

Corky Bell said years ago that you can't have good response down low and that meaty top end with the one turbine housing . You have to make your own decision on which compromise you want , mine will be the one that suits what I do with my car most of the time which is not using the meaty top end so much .

Possibly the saddest thing is that Garrett unlike HKS never made a 0.73 AR GT30 turbine housing and the one HKS do make has a GT28 flange and no integral wastegate .

Right at the bleeding edge the 56 trim GT37 compressor in the 0.60 AR T04E housing can churn enough air for about 540 Hp but I doubt you'd get near that without the 1.06 AR turbine housing and a pretty big exhaust . Besides I reckon it would be laggy on an RB25DET .

Personally I don't think much of the 71.1mm or GT35 compressor wheel teamed up with the GT30 turbine . This is not to say they are an unworkable combination but I don't think there is anything brilliant they can do given a choice of turbos . Someone here said differently but I have never seen

a GT3071R with a port shrouded compressor housing , they normally have a plain snout 0.50 AR T04E housing ant I've never seen a port shrouded 0.50 E one .

The GT37 52T compressor is the one HKS specified when they though things could get laggy . It was an option for SRs and in twin form on RB26s .

I don't see the point of having compressor capacity you don't intend to use so for all round IMO the 52T GT37 compressor looks pretty good on an RB25 . At least with these the worst you may have to do is change turbine housings if its too laggy or the top end not to your liking .

Turbos aside you can do things like headwork and bump the CR a little to give it a bit more low down engine only torque . If I was rebuilding one I'd use the Neo head and pistons to suit because I think the more compact chambers was probably aimed at better lean running detonation resistance . Bit more timing bit better burning bit closer to the boost threshold etc etc .

Its all fine till the wheels spin then the AWDs eat you ...

A .

Well hopefully the e 85 tune will be Monday. Planning on fitting my new gate with 18.8 psi spring and getting a power run so I can go back to back with e85 againt pump. Imo the .63 rear ex gated is perfect for the rb25. I'm hoping to nudge 300rwkw with e85 and 19psi

With external wastegates there is always the opportunity to adapt GT28 flanged GT30 turbine housings , the hassle is moving the turbo out further and altering plumbing to suit .

Also search the Mafias threads/posts because he claimed to have I think ~ 320 Kw with a 56T GT3037/GT3076R in a 0.63 IW GT30 housing .

He used WMI which can be arguably simpler than high Ethanol content fuels .

A .

Given with E85 you should be able to make 300kw even with a GT3071 I see no reason to go for a 76 unless you want >300kw. I see no issue with screwing a bit more boost in, I mean why would you stop with the 3076 anyway, you'd just keep screwing more boost in to make more power.

Matt from nistune made 300kw with poncams and a neo rb25 with a 0.82 internal gate 3071 on BP98! Probably the best result I've ever seen, was done at morpowa here in Adelaide by Pete who is also from Nistune, he reckons the dyno is far from happy.

Matt does have very high quality parts on his car, proper jap intercooler and everything else is not cheap.

If you go on the nistune forums you can see the dyno sheet and discussion surrounding it.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...