Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey sau,

Not long ago purchased a 1999 RS four S (dayz edition). Looking at my next catback exhaust system for the car, it came with a split dump pipe a custom welded front pipe and a OEM NISMO catback. I need something of high performance and nice decent note to the exhaust.. the following link shows the systems im looking at http://www.nengun.com/search/#t:n:u;v:90049;c:6;g:1

Kakimoto R

Kakimoto Full mega N1

HKS hi-power (used on my R33 skyline)

HKS silent hi-power

Greddy power extreme-GS

Just need some opinions on which is the best system i can buy, not too concerned about price just quality

Best regards chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358119-wgnc34-stagea-exhaust-questions/
Share on other sites

Hey man,

Thanks for the advice, was running a hks hi power 409 on my R33 skyline. I feel it wasnt just cutting the cheese and felt like there are much better systems out there. Like i said not too concerned about money just want the best of the best

If there are any other systems i have missed out on please let me know

i've got fujitsubo s/s 3" on mine.

i think its a good exhaust for an every day driver (like mine) because it isn't too loud in the cabin, doesn't drone, and still has a bit of note when you get on it, but 89dB so remains legal.

the construction is just amazing - i love getting under the car and admiring it.

but i have heard that the HKS and Kakimotos flow better - but louder and may be over legal dB.

considering a kakimoto, had the hks hi power 409 on the R33

which one would you guys recommend out of the two kakimoto's in the nengun link i posted?... The Kakimoto R or the

Kakimoto Full mega N1.

Looking for the one that is somewhat louder and flows alot better.

Was considering that, like said money is not a issue trying to decide between the two Kakimotos in the link just not sure which one would flow better and have a better note.

somewhat a fair bit louder then my oem NISMO catback

if money isn't an issue, and either is time - then i'd get one made locally in stainless steel - with a lukey muffler.

every import i hear with a local muffler on it sounds so nice and deep and bassy at idle and down low. such a smooth sound, where as i think the jap mufflers sound a bit more 'zingy'......IMO. or you could go for a varex muffler, and have control over the sound.

but for buy now, 100% guaranteed bolt up on the weekend solution - i'd just go for the N1 exhaust with a decat pipe, and perhaps put a remote butterfly in it to silence it.

p.s. you should have just bought my car when we talked and you wouldn't be facing these issues hahahah :-P

if money isn't an issue, and either is time - then i'd get one made locally in stainless steel - with a lukey muffler.

every import i hear with a local muffler on it sounds so nice and deep and bassy at idle and down low. such a smooth sound, where as i think the jap mufflers sound a bit more 'zingy'......IMO. or you could go for a varex muffler, and have control over the sound.

but for buy now, 100% guaranteed bolt up on the weekend solution - i'd just go for the N1 exhaust with a decat pipe, and perhaps put a remote butterfly in it to silence it.

p.s. you should have just bought my car when we talked and you wouldn't be facing these issues hahahah :-P

Your not wrong there man, but im a sucker for a stock car... love to modify it to my own liking with my insparation

Would be good to get some more opinions maybe someone who has a kakimoto? tossing up between the N1 and the NUR at the moment. Had the HKS on my R33 was happy with the sound but want to try something different this time

if you've got the fun tickets to spend check out ces racing exhausts at brissie and get a full s/s with split front dump and pick up about 30 xtra kws .....worth every centpost-20831-0-26229100-1301035478_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Mate the Jap ones are not all there cracked up to be, your mostly paying for sticker name. I have been going through the same dilema at the moment. In my opinion I think the Jap sticker brands are great for coolers and add ons like oil catch tank etc. But with price not being your deciding factor I would say you cant go past CES racing. I have been looking for the best quality and flow myself without price considerations and no one but CES racing will give you guaranteed kw increase. Full CES 3"stainless system with ceramic coated twin dump pipe for $2640. Im booked in to get mine fitted in 2 weeks time. Guaranteed 40kw increase at the wheels, best systems around for quality and performance I reckon :)

Mate the Jap ones are not all there cracked up to be, your mostly paying for sticker name. I have been going through the same dilema at the moment. In my opinion I think the Jap sticker brands are great for coolers and add ons like oil catch tank etc. But with price not being your deciding factor I would say you cant go past CES racing. I have been looking for the best quality and flow myself without price considerations and no one but CES racing will give you guaranteed kw increase. Full CES 3"stainless system with ceramic coated twin dump pipe for $2640. Im booked in to get mine fitted in 2 weeks time. Guaranteed 40kw increase at the wheels, best systems around for quality and performance I reckon :)

I'm guessing you're talking rb26? Maybe with a retune that might be possible. And for that price, I'd hope it includes one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...