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he did 260rs cradle.

i did s14, everything lines up, i used the same diff i was running but obviously needed to use the shorter half shafts. lower control, camber, toe and traction arms are all the same and interchangeable.

while the cradle is out, replace the subframe bushes with whiteline units or equivalent

Actually out of a RS4S, same as 260rs thuo.

You can use a R33 GTS (non turbo) IE no hicas rack to worry about, same as S14, S15

GTST has hicas which you don't want so just adds more expense to fit a removal bar

sway bar is not the same!

The wider auto sway bar will fit the smaller cradle, but it won't work the other way around with standard parts.

Aftermarket ones are the same. i'm running a whiteline 27mm R33GTR sway bar in my series 2 auto stagea

So Mike, hopefully you can chime in here once again?!

how much clearance do you think you had here roughly? (50mm, 60mm?)

The wheels I'm looking at will have about 20mm less inner clearance when your 9.5 +1's so here's hoping I'll still have some room left.

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to give you an idea, with the factory manual rear i could fit 9.5 +22's in the rear but they juuuuuuust touched the coilover body.

fitted a 15mm bolt on, and with a gaurd roll and stock camber arms they are about 5mm inside the gaurds when the suspension is full compressed - ie, they don't rub.

so in summary, on a manual rear end, a 9.5 +0 fits with only flattening of the lips and would sit 'hella flush' - and clears the struts easily.

that's with 235's fitted

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Going of that Mat, it's going to be f**king close! If i run minimal camber (and maybe a slip on spacer if I must) I should be right.

Next delima, the wheels I wanted aren't avaliable for another 3 weeks or so, and I don't think the dude is 100% on selling them.

Edited by Run-It-Hard

Framed

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The Wed’s have found themselves a new home, they are now living on Julie’s S14 and they look great on it. What brang this sudden thought upon me you ask? Well after a bit of research and asking some members on SAU, I’ve discovered that it’s possible to eliminate the extra rear track on automatic Stageas.

The items needed are a S14 turbo rear sub frame, and R33 rear drive shafts. The main benefit of doing this is so you can fit a more aggressive wheel at the back, just like the fronts.

The items bolt straight up to standard mounting locations too which is a great bonus. I’ve got a set of wheels in spastic sizes lined up too (hopefully), the rears will be pushing it though so I hope I can pull it off!

I’m still very indecisive with the Stagea too, I can’t decide whether to let it go, or hold onto it … I’m sure I’ll figure it out soon enough.

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Keep it. You know you want to!

Can you still take it out to the skid pan with no license? I figured you probably could if someone else drove it out there??

Yeah, skidpans pretty gay though I want to hit up the big track but the car isn't ready yet.

Man, it's been 3 weeks, but I must say no licience SUCKS!

Awesome rear mat! If you sell the car...sell me the mat!

Someones mad jelly aye hahaha.

The Stagea in all it's dirty glory! Missus has put her foot down and told me not to sell it, normally when I rebel against her desicions I end up regretting my own desicion. So I guess I'll just have to put that manual in huh, what a shame! haha. I might do it steps though, so manual first, drive it around and then power mods? still not sure at this stage ... waiting for the outcome on these wheels I want.

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Are you still going to have to change to fork end rear shocks using the s14 subframe? I need to do the same thing as the new wheels i've got are sitting about 30mm outside the guards at the moment and I haven't even dropped it down again yet from the height it was at when I had my stockies on. Also i'm not using stretched tyres either, and am not getting rid of the 255's that are on there as they're near new and cost a fortune. And from what I understand using the narrower subframe is going to pull the inside of the wheel closer to the shock and lower spring seat (I've got the SK group buy kit, so bilsteins with a largish spring seat compared to most coilovers)which is also worrying me. So I'm going to have to use spacers to clear the spring seat. Why do the final motion wide body guards have to be so pricey :)

Yeah I was thinking that would still work, but the only other thing I was thinking about is won't the shocks have to be pulled in towards the subframe more to bolt up again (as everything is moving 50mm in). I know there is some movement there but is it enough? Correct me if I'm wrong here though..... And also depending on what shocks/springs or coilovers you'd be using, you'll probably have to space it out again to clear the shock body and/or lower spring seat although not as much as 50mm? I'm not doubting that it works as people on here have done it (although I thought they'd used the fork mounting shocks instead) just trying to work it out in my head :)

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