Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Folks I tell you my engine used to be super smooth at 80k kms I was very proud but now :(

My bad run in of having a service at a stinking Midas I wish I never did. I am now 100% convinced that my valves need adjusting, valves are noisy when cold and as engine warms the noise almost dissapears. I have had one opinion that its normal (the mechanic agreed that there is lifter noise but to him it seemed acceptable), however this was while engine was well hot but on cold starts its down right depressing.

My belts are slipping a third time - not timing belt they think its aircon or something else. But how is it that after 3 adjustments belts squeel on cold starts, this time just chirping momentarily.

Has this got anything to do with timing being stuffed up? whatabout harmonic ballancer plays a part?

Also can this be caused by running too lean or slightly lean over some time (I run 10psi unmodded car)?

What is this kind of thing likely to cost (adjustmenent) can it be done while I wait and am I hurting my engine the way it is after about 2000kms?

If I am right I need a valve lash adjustement. If I do a valve lash adjustment can I go for say poncams while I'm at it since engine is being ripped open?

sigh... I tell you going to Midas is like going to Red Rooster instead of Nandos.. farking fark.. letting off steam ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358137-valve-clearence-r34/
Share on other sites

Ok mate dont get to stressed just yet ok...

You went to a run of the mill service center which means they probably used run of the mill Mineral oil, which is not to good for our cars...

Try changing the oil to something full synthetic or at least part synthetic that is a little lighter weight like a 10W-40 and see how that goes.... it might not clear up the noise straight away but give it a week and you will notice a difference...

As for the belts they might have used a cheap belt which has happened to me before or simply not tight enough - this is a simple fix and nothing to worry about, unless you leave it way too long and wear the belt and it breaks and wraps around things.

Let us all know how it goes after a GOOD oil change

Any fully synthetic around the 0W-40 range.. personally i run Synpower 5W-50 in my forged 30 and stock 25 Neo but I think Nissan recommends 0W-40ish or something. We don't have the extreme cold temps here so you don't need to go as thin on the cold side as they do in Japland.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...