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yeah i was just having a look... found a few on alignment tools and hints and tips... nothing as complete and a walkthrough, but i might try to do that myself when i do this.

i might start up another thread in an hour or so in the maintenance section with what i've found, what i've been told here and with a few q's i still have (like is there any way to top up the gearbox fluid before i remount the GB? when i did it last with a pump a while back it felt like i was wasting a heap of oil trying to pump it up a hose and into the inlet).

from what you guys said as soon as you disconnect the tailshaft its all gonna pour out, so i cant refill it until its reconnected.

yeah i was just having a look... found a few on alignment tools and hints and tips... nothing as complete and a walkthrough, but i might try to do that myself when i do this.

i might start up another thread in an hour or so in the maintenance section with what i've found, what i've been told here and with a few q's i still have (like is there any way to top up the gearbox fluid before i remount the GB? when i did it last with a pump a while back it felt like i was wasting a heap of oil trying to pump it up a hose and into the inlet).

from what you guys said as soon as you disconnect the tailshaft its all gonna pour out, so i cant refill it until its reconnected.

I am almost certain that when you mount the box back up, before you put the shifter into the box, you can actually put a funnel in there and fill it up from there. You just need to make sure the top feed bolt is out of the box so you can get the overflow to come out. Its pretty common to do this on alot of rear wheel drive cars.

And yes, I should have remembered, oil will come running out of the back of the box when you pull the shaft out and it makes a f**king mess when you don't expect it lol.

There is not much to remember really, the reason it cost alot is not because there is alot to do, its just a tedious, pain in the ass kind of job. Complex level is much lower than the frustration level. You really are going to need an air wrench to get that flywheel off. I just tried to get my old one off..... About half a meter breaker bar and I'm grinding knuckles and they wouldn't come loose.

found...

this (but its for a 34 gtt, but i'm thinking the basics are the same... kinda, just have to account for push vs pull)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/

and this... (contains two links to the hints i mentioned above.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208087-tips-for-clutch-change-rb25det/

its not a hard thing to do - you will figure it all out as you go.

its just the little things like getting the flywheel bolts on and off without a rattle gun that will do your head in - easy if you know how, its a little hard to explain.

the few things that make it 100x easier to get it all on/off are the following:

1. take the exhaust off at the cat - you'll need it disconnected because you need to tilt the engine backwards.

2. loosen the engine mount bolts to the end of the thread.

3. get a regular car jack and jack up the front of the motor at the front of the sump AFTER you've taken the tail shaft off, disconnected exhaust and intercooler piping that moves with the motor - this makes it easy to reach the top bolts on the bell housing with a long extension. this also helps when pulling the box out, what i do is get my trolley jack, pull it out while ive got super clamps on the handle so i can turn it while under the car. the box drops to a height where you can kind of 'roll' it onto the ground. make sure you remove the jack thats tilting the motor before you're ready to fit the tail shaft back on.

4. i'll try explain how to loosen/tighten the flywheel bolts without a rattle gun...

if you put the lower left bell housing bolt on, you can get enough leverage to put a BIG flat head screw driver into the flywheel teeth to stop it turning. you'll figure it out once you get under there.. it has to wedge between the chassis and that bell housing bolt to stop it from turning - next clutch i do i'll take a pic. with a breaker bar you'll easily get to the required torques.

p.s. buy a nissan input shaft from any gearbox place - im pretty sure they're all the same.

I used this to undo the flywheel/pressure plate bolts

http://www.kcimports.com.au/item.php?i=31

At first I had my doubts that it would do anything, but after 2 snapped bolts due to the operator tightening them instead of loosening I was proven wrong :laugh:

Yeah cass that guy was a f**king moron :whistling:

For undoing the rest of the flywheel bolts and tightening them i just used a screwdriver that sat in a tooth and jammed against the transmission tunnel.. sounds dodgey but its not that bad when u actually see it..

Simon if it wasnt such a dirty job and u didnt live so far away i would come give you a hand as ive done it like 5 times now..

if you have any questions just PM me or if u still have my number send me a txt

Does that mean if you get a clutch replaced then gear oil also gets replaced?

Its probable that the fluid will leak out the rear of the box so yeah you may as well do it while you're there and have everything going back on the car.

Yay I pickup my clutch today!

I got quoted over $700 for a change on my r34 once.

$700 for a stock clutch? I paid $850 for Exedy Heavy Duty clutch/pressure plate/ Thrust bearing installed, flushed brakes, topped up all fluid levels (I know these arn't any big deal but still...) This was through a company with GST tax invoice. I'm sure you could still find cheaper if you looked but I was in a hurry. I definately wouldn't pay $700 for the standard Nissan one though. I was quoted about $450-$500 for the stock Nissan one installed by the same guys in Sydney. I really wasn't impressed with the stock nissan one and then I was only pushing 200rwkw and it couldn't handle that.

I got all my parts today for the clutch and its ready to go on but until I fix some of these other f**king noises from my engine bay, I'm not going to add any parts yet...

I payed $400 for a complete Carbotic 5 puk clutch kit(all the little shit as standard).

$700 for a stock clutch? I paid $850 for Exedy Heavy Duty clutch/pressure plate/ Thrust bearing installed, flushed brakes, topped up all fluid levels (I know these arn't any big deal but still...) This was through a company with GST tax invoice. I'm sure you could still find cheaper if you looked but I was in a hurry. I definately wouldn't pay $700 for the standard Nissan one though. I was quoted about $450-$500 for the stock Nissan one installed by the same guys in Sydney. I really wasn't impressed with the stock nissan one and then I was only pushing 200rwkw and it couldn't handle that.

That quote was 700 for labour. Needless to say I went elsewhere, I think they were confused and honestly just didn't want the business.

What car was that on, because Exedy HD clutch kits for gtr's and r34 gtt's are much more expensive than gt's, gts's and gtst's ($500 difference currently at kudos). That's there the big cost comes in for r34's. There is also barely any difference in price between the standard clutch replacement (which is actually made by Exedy), and the Exedy HD clutches (~$100), the differences between the two are mainly lifetime and stress on the gearbox.

Also got to remember that the local mechanic down the road who's only really worked on falcodores and camrys will take a lot longer to do the job than a performance mechanic.

That quote was 700 for labour. Needless to say I went elsewhere, I think they were confused and honestly just didn't want the business.

What car was that on, because Exedy HD clutch kits for gtr's and r34 gtt's are much more expensive than gt's, gts's and gtst's ($500 difference currently at kudos). That's there the big cost comes in for r34's. There is also barely any difference in price between the standard clutch replacement (which is actually made by Exedy), and the Exedy HD clutches (~$100), the differences between the two are mainly lifetime and stress on the gearbox.

Also got to remember that the local mechanic down the road who's only really worked on falcodores and camrys will take a lot longer to do the job than a performance mechanic.

The OP was talking about a series 2 R33, so talking about R34 gtr clutches don't really help the OP lol.

Nissan OEM and the standard exedy clutch are similar and price is similar. The HD when I bought it a while back was meant to have off memory 25% stronger clamping over stock (could be marketing ploy but I have never had it slip where as the stock one would slip a long time before it was due) Done 60 000km on the exedy HD so far so even if the organic compound of the clutch is the same as a stock one, maybe the extra clamping capacity that stops it from slipping also prolongs the life of the clutch as sliping wares a clutch faster?

With a mildy modded car i'd definately get the HD from my experience and for value for money, for a stock car the stock clutch is fine.

I'm used to paying anywhere from $4k - $12k for a clutch installed on some of my other cars, so for me $800 ish installed for my R33 is a steal. Alternatively I can swap the R33 for a clutch on one of the other cars???:rofl2:

What the hell do you drive to cost that much to change a clutch lol.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/183745-supercar-spotted-thread/page__st__820

I change cars often, been with these for a while now (untill my next order comes through at the end of the year)

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