Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Im currently finishing off the new engine for my track car. The car is a series 2 r33 gtst and its a rb25/30 not that it should make a difference though. I have a greddy manifold on it and am looking around on the net for a throttle body.

I want one that bolts on to greddy manifold as im dont want to weld different flange on like some of the cheap shit requires.

Now I have noticed that some of the throttle bodys to suit rb25 and greddy plenum are specific to series one tps.

Now are they meaning that series one and series two r33 have different tps?

Or do the mean that the neo rb25 is a series two rb25 and they are calling all r33 gtst engines a series one rb25. I know of a few differences between s1 and s2 r33 gtst rb25 but havnt noticed the tps being different.

Can some one tell me where they have bought an 80mm inside diameter TB that suited a greddy or greddy style plenum and interfaced correctly with their tps and throttle cable etc in a s2 r33 gtst

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
Share on other sites

You will need a S13 silvia throttle cable as the R33 one isnt long enough and once fitted sits on too much of an angle. I bought a 80mm throttle body from a ebay store for my 25/30 ( im also runing the Greddy manifold) and insted of welding the spacer to the plenum that came with it i had the throttle body bolt holes re drilled so it would bolt right onto the plenum( the bolt hoels were only about 2mm out anyway. I also had a gouge machined out on the face of the throttle body to hold a O ring so it seals up against the plenum nicely and wont leak. Another issue with the ebay throttle bodys is the spindle that inserts into the TPS is too small and has alot of free play so you dont get an accurate reading from the TPS so you have to have the spindle built up with small welds then sanded to fit inside the TPS snugly.

The series one TPS is spindle driven and has one plug fixed to the side of it with another on a 5cm fly lead coming out of it. Series two TPS have two plugs fixed to the plastic body of the TPS and the way they mount to the throttle body is different ( When i bought my Greddy manifold it had a R34 TPS on it and its completly different to the series one R33 unit. I think the R33 series two TPS is the same as the R34 one. Also the pin out on the series one and two TPS is different so they are not plug and play but can be rewired to work.

Save yourself the hasle and just get the TPS which suits your engine loom.

I have just upgraded to a Q45 throttle body so my Greddy throttle body adaptor is for sale.

Bolts straight onto the Greddy plenum and allows you to keep the standard throttle body.

Also has the Greddy logo on it to match the plenum :)

$100 Delivered.

Thanks for the info jack88. so by the sounds of it I should be searching for an r 34 gtt throttle body?

Do I uee sr20 or ca18 s13 throttle cable?

Ia also dont like the idea of the spindle being poxy and having play on cheeap items so it lools like ill have to buy jap which I bet will cost an arm and a leg. Any local options?

Thanks for the offer nytsky but im after an 80mm item. Will an aftermarket Q45 TB fit my wiring or do they suit S1 r33?

I just assumed all these q45 TB I see on ebay was dodgy after market replacements for the q45. I didnt think they was genuine. And if I use one that means I need to rewire it cause s2 plugs are different and so is the pin layout. I was hoping someone made a plug and play sort of throttle body for series 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...