Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys,

Im asking this on behalf of a friend. She just recently bought a 99 skyline GT 4 door. The car was running fine when she bought it last month but now have develops what could be described as a shudder.

The car seems to shake when the revs are low and sometimes conks out when idling. Also sems to have lost a bit of power. Any help with this issue would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358399-engine-shuddering-need-help/
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue when i bought my 99 non turbo, at the lights the engine will shudder but go away whilst driving.......mine went away when i put in some some fuel injector cleaner and put nothing but 98 petrol.

Ill give that a go. Found out that the car was run to nearly empty maybe it could have some sediment gone through the system or just dodgy fuel. Might try to drain the tank.

how did you get on with the injector cleaner?

mine just started doing this also, - ive been thru the whole coil pack problem and this issue feels much different to me - after a long road trip my car now likes to 'shudder' while idling, but it only seems to start doing it after driving for about 10-15 min after it really warms up, you can really feel it sorta thumping the back of the drivers seat thru the exhaust, yet the engine runs perfectly smooth and rev needle doesnt move. engine light has not come on yet. sometimes when its bad enough it will also struggle to accelerate under throttle, but seems to go thru patches in the rev range where its nice and smooth but then sputters.

about 30km before the problem started i had just filled up my tank from the 1/4 mark and wonder if i got sum dirty/old gas???

thanks.

I dont think you guys have a coilpack problem considering there is no engine light that should be on to indicate this, even if the petrol injector cleaner does not work it does not hurt to throw it in....my mechanic does it to all the cars he servies and reckon its helping to a degree.

best to start a process of elimination.......start with the basics (and interesting enough youd be suprised how many problems can be the simplest of things)....but good luck anyway :)

ps carby cleaner is good stuff too......

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well if you're getting idle hunting when not using the accelerator it's your aac valve, theres a tutorial on how to clean it out. Here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/page__hl__diy+aac+cleaning

I find on my r33 that because of my faulty cam angle sensor the timing jumps out and the car feels strangely underpowered in some of the rev range but this problem is intermitant. I took my injectors out and had them professionally cleaned, guess it cant hurt to get it done.

I dont think you guys have a coilpack problem considering there is no engine light that should be on to indicate this, even if the petrol injector cleaner does not work it does not hurt to throw it in....my mechanic does it to all the cars he servies and reckon its helping to a degree.

The "Check Engine" light won't come on for coil-pack issues.

Steps to fix this problem:

  • Run shell V-Power (My R33 has a Shell Premium sticker on the fuel tanker.. can only assume they want me using shells premium petrol)
  • Run an injector cleaner (wynns spitfire, for instance)
  • Pull each spark plug out and have a geez at it; are they browning badly? YOu may need to change them.
  • If your spark plugs are functioning fine, it could be a coilpack issue. Check over them for small cracks or damage. I've personally covered mine in silicon which has slightly assisted with my misfire issue.
  • Have you washed the cars engine bay recently?

The AAC valve sounds interesting.. I'll have to do a bit of research about this.

Edited by SKITTLES

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...