Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree, this would make for an interesting result, perhaps even with the 3582 hta? I found your graph again the other day Owen, I still can't believe the response.

I would think a HTA3076 would be a bit wild if the TS works as well on it as it does on the 3036 Owen has, i would be inclined to go the 3582 in that case and make the power with epic response!

In saying that, any more power than i have now would probably take a bit of the fun away on the street and would push the internals past their limit which for me would not suit! I am certainly happy with what i have :yes:

Hey Mat, your breather setup looks stock but is your breahter setup the standard setup ;)? Wanting to convert mine to standard and get rid of the catch can setup but not sure if its wise with a motor with alot of stuff on it.

Yep, it's the standard setup mate.

I agree, this would make for an interesting result, perhaps even with the 3582 hta? I found your graph again the other day Owen, I still can't believe the response.

If you look at the boost curve its got plenty more in it too, a flat line of 1.4bar would of made that graph even steeper..

If you look at the boost curve its got plenty more in it too, a flat line of 1.4bar would of made that graph even steeper..

My old turbo maxed out on 1.4bar so dont be surprised if Owens is basically out of puff... Not saying there isn't more in the setup, but he could have been getting near the limit of the turbo to some degree.... Where is Lithium to elaborate on this? lol

Wasn't yours set up in that same way by JEM? Sort of goes up to 28 then scales back for the rest of the powerband?

Both turbos did the same, yes.

The old 3076 was forced to 24psi and bled off to 20psi where it made peak power..... Keep in mind we made the similar power on 22psi bleeding to 20psi but got a little more out of it with the higher boost.

The new turbo graphs i still haven't seen as yet, I've been waiting for Adam to send the PDF's through too me so i can have a good look. I have only seen as much as you guys in terms of the big graph from the hero run. The turbo was run up too 28psi and bled off too around 24psi, the turbo/setup reached its limit... I think with a free flowing exhaust and holding the boost a bit would have seen the 400 mark possibly BUT that is putting a lot of heat in the turbo and engine AND i am running a stock engine and headgasket remember, i was shocked when i saw it survived 28psi and 391kw lolz.

Apparently some boost was taken out and it stayed at 387 so once i get all the graphs i can post them with the proper results...

thats with a 3inch dump still isnt it?

anymore mods comming matt? im thinking myself of buying an RB30 block to build over time. :P

Yep it is... Screamer did a lot of work too!

There will be maintenance mods etc but nothing big coming in the near future, it will be more upgrades of broken parts.

AND will be more using the car for what its built for rather than working on it ;)

When you taking me for a run matty? This saturday?? :woot:

Nope, Carmen will be driving the cruiser or golf i think... Will come say G'day and catch up for a feed for sure!

I would think a HTA3076 would be a bit wild if the TS works as well on it as it does on the 3036 Owen has, i would be inclined to go the 3582 in that case and make the power with epic response!

In saying that, any more power than i have now would probably take a bit of the fun away on the street and would push the internals past their limit which for me would not suit! I am certainly happy with what i have :yes:

Wow that curve is pretty awesome - man a twin scroll HTA3076 would make for an incredible street RB25 setup, next step for Owen's car? :D

HTA3582 would be just nuts, probably similar response to a normal GT3076R but good for nearly 100rwkw more haha

i enquired with them, and they won't sell just the comp wheel and housing,

bastards!

Haha nicely put! :P BUT even nicer to know you are enquiring :D

If its all in the comp wheel and comp housing then could someone remake a comp wheel in a 0.7comp cover to replicate the same thing at a lower price? eg stao?

not sure if its being done already .. but doesn't HTA use garrett parts and just modify them?

just a thought

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...