34Geeteetee Daily / Track Project

[Hanaldo]

So it looks like the seat rail situation will be sorted soon, unfortunately if i use the sliders which i probably will, its doesnt get the seat any lower in the car So no real advantage in terms of seating position BUT the seats will have more hugginess or whatever you call it over the standard GTT seat, as comfy as they are, they have seen better days...

Just get some proper rails to suit the 34 floor pan (I'm using Recaro, but Bride or any bottom mount seat rail to suit 34 will work) and then drill and tap some holes to fit them up. It only took about 40 minutes to do man, just a bit of measuring and re-measuring then 5 minutes to drill and tap! Also you never know, they MAY just bolt straight up and then you're laughing!

I dunno about you, but the last thing I would want to do is increase the seat height. I actually find the seats are too high to begin with, I'm only 178cm but with a helmet on my head strokes the roof a bit. Any higher and I'd be doing motorsport events with my neck at 90 degrees!

[34GeeTeeTee]

Just get some proper rails to suit the 34 floor pan (I'm using Recaro, but Bride or any bottom mount seat rail to suit 34 will work) and then drill and tap some holes to fit them up. It only took about 40 minutes to do man, just a bit of measuring and re-measuring then 5 minutes to drill and tap! Also you never know, they MAY just bolt straight up and then you're laughing!

I dunno about you, but the last thing I would want to do is increase the seat height. I actually find the seats are too high to begin with, I'm only 178cm but with a helmet on my head strokes the roof a bit. Any higher and I'd be doing motorsport events with my neck at 90 degrees!

Yeah my head touches the roof with a helmet and i have to sit down low in the seat which is a tad uncomfortable on track days, i am 182cm so similar in height to you!

I can get the rails made through this NZ guy low with or without the sliders (They are just the same as the Bride MO from what i can tell)... I guess though once they are fitted in a fixed position it will be a pain in the ass to store anything in the back seat, but there will be a cage there eventually which will get rid of this problem i guess!

Post pics of your rails and seat combo?

[DJ-Static]

Guys I cringe everytime you talk about seat rails, modifications, stuff not lining up etc. etc. I don't want to rain on you parade but you absolutely must get the correct realist to suit your car AND your seat. These should also be ADR approved (it means they have been slead tested with a dummy)

The other important things are using the correct bolts and torque settings. Then talk about styling and comfort. All that stuff is important in normal cars, you guys are like 4 to 5 times more powerful (and you drive on a track).

I know all this because I worked for Futuris Automotive who are (were) the teir 1 suppler to Mitsubishi, Ford and Holden. I was the Quality Engineer for the Holden front seating line and Mitsubishi intrusion bars.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Buy my shit -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430836-34geeteetees-wheel-and-tyre-clearance-sale/

[34GeeTeeTee]

Guys I cringe everytime you talk about seat rails, modifications, stuff not lining up etc. etc. I don't want to rain on you parade but you absolutely must get the correct realist to suit your car AND your seat. These should also be ADR approved (it means they have been slead tested with a dummy)

The other important things are using the correct bolts and torque settings. Then talk about styling and comfort. All that stuff is important in normal cars, you guys are like 4 to 5 times more powerful (and you drive on a track).

I know all this because I worked for Futuris Automotive who are (were) the teir 1 suppler to Mitsubishi, Ford and Holden. I was the Quality Engineer for the Holden front seating line and Mitsubishi intrusion bars.

Ah nice info mate! well apparently the seat is ADR approved but the rails, i dunno.... Being that they are either made in NZ or Japan, i highly doubt it...

[DJ-Static]

Even if the are good enough to be ADR. It's a defect because they wont have the compliance marks to the associated Australian Standards.

End of the day I don't want anyone getting hurt. I've seen some horrific car seat failures. Worst one - mum driving, 100kg plus dad in passenger seat two kids in the back. Dad rams the seat agains the back stop for more leg room. He actually sheared the top of the rear stop. The locking mechanism isn't engaged. Car gets rear ended by a fast moving vehicle whilst stationary. Dads seat slides straight out the back onto the kid in the back. Kid doesn't servive the injuries.

They need to be made from the correct materials and assembled properly with a design that had been tested appropriately. That's why their so expensive (the propper ones). Because you can't cheap out on quality or safety.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Way to kill the thread haha

I know what you mean though and yes safety is important too me, especially on track... But i was hoping these would do for now, the company that is back in the links on past pages in NZ seems to deal mainly in safety race gear so i doubt they would be selling dodgy gear...

[TTR34]

Enjoying the thread Raymond.

Any chance you can link me to the eye lids you have on the headlights? I saw some on ebay but not sure if they are good.

Thanks !

[34GeeTeeTee]

Enjoying the thread Raymond.

Any chance you can link me to the eye lids you have on the headlights? I saw some on ebay but not sure if they are good.

Thanks !

Location..... Not name

Nope i cant, as they were put on by the previous owner so i am not sure where they came from... I am sure if he see's your post he will drop a link or reply for you

[Aggroman]

Yeah good one Raymond hahahahaha

For heat shielding stuff, I used heat shielding tape for my PS lines as I cbf disconnecting shit and bought some of the mountable (albeit a bit of a pain) ACL heatshield stuff, like you see on the XR6 turbos.

Lots of Unigroup cars run that as shielding along the strut to cover all associated lines and then rivet them on, looks pretty wicked and yes some flame proof paint will go on and hold fine as mine has been that way for 2-3 years now and only scratched off around the bolt spots cause im a clumsy karnt

p.s. see for sale thread about me and tyres

[34GeeTeeTee]

Yeah good one Raymond hahahahaha

For heat shielding stuff, I used heat shielding tape for my PS lines as I cbf disconnecting shit and bought some of the mountable (albeit a bit of a pain) ACL heatshield stuff, like you see on the XR6 turbos.

Lots of Unigroup cars run that as shielding along the strut to cover all associated lines and then rivet them on, looks pretty wicked and yes some flame proof paint will go on and hold fine as mine has been that way for 2-3 years now and only scratched off around the bolt spots cause im a clumsy karnt

p.s. see for sale thread about me and tyres

I like the sound of that stuff! Might see if i can get a sheet and run it past the ABS and brake lines too!

What tape??

And replied about tyres kent

[Aggroman]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IMPREZA-WRX-STI-HEAT-REFLECTIVE-INSULATION-WRAP-TAPE-/250855774787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a682b5a43&_uhb=1

This kinda tape.

[34GeeTeeTee]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IMPREZA-WRX-STI-HEAT-REFLECTIVE-INSULATION-WRAP-TAPE-/250855774787?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a682b5a43&_uhb=1

This kinda tape.

Hmmmm nice and stealth

[choyda]

Enjoying the thread Raymond.

Any chance you can link me to the eye lids you have on the headlights? I saw some on ebay but not sure if they are good.

Thanks !

Contact n15m0 (Jonathan). He got me on to them back when when I had the car. I think he got them through Stan aka Satanic.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Contact n15m0 (Jonathan). He got me on to them back when when I had the car. I think he got them through Stan aka Satanic.

Haha thanks mate, ears must have been burning

[Hanaldo]

Guys I cringe everytime you talk about seat rails, modifications, stuff not lining up etc. etc. I don't want to rain on you parade but you absolutely must get the correct realist to suit your car AND your seat. These should also be ADR approved (it means they have been slead tested with a dummy)

The other important things are using the correct bolts and torque settings. Then talk about styling and comfort. All that stuff is important in normal cars, you guys are like 4 to 5 times more powerful (and you drive on a track).

I know all this because I worked for Futuris Automotive who are (were) the teir 1 suppler to Mitsubishi, Ford and Holden. I was the Quality Engineer for the Holden front seating line and Mitsubishi intrusion bars.

Got approval from an engineer for the way I did my seats, so mine are fine Just need to make sure that the holes being drilled and tapped doesn't change the structural integrity of the seat. This is how I did mine:

Seat mounts, as they came:

The holes were about an inch away from aligning:

So measured it all up, drilled and tapped holes where they needed to be:

This was good enough for the engineer, he was happy with the new holes being positioned on the same mounting points as the holes the Sparco came with. Could be a different story being over east though.

[B-rice]

are seats defectable as well? Meaning they also need an engineers certificate if I was to go through inspection?

[Hanaldo]

Definitely.

[DJ-Static]

are seats defectable as well? Meaning they also need an engineers certificate if I was to go through inspection?

Lol, it's one of the most important safety features of a car. In fact it keeps you in it! And hopefully your belt and air bag help you stay there. If any part of the seat or rail gives way. The seat belt won't work and you will most likely exit the vehicle.

[Daleo]

Got approval from an engineer for the way I did my seats, so mine are fine Just need to make sure that the holes being drilled and tapped doesn't change the structural integrity of the seat. This is how I did mine:

Seat mounts, as they came:

The holes were about an inch away from aligning:

So measured it all up, drilled and tapped holes where they needed to be:

This was good enough for the engineer, he was happy with the new holes being positioned on the same mounting points as the holes the Sparco came with. Could be a different story being over east though.

Not criticizing you or your engineer, but I don't think I'd have been satisfied with your solution.

The original mounting point has a captive nut on the other side of the steel, THIS is what supports the load on the seat, a thread cut in the rail is much easier to tear out than it is to pull the captive nut through the rail.

Also the rail is not thicker than the diameter of the tread it is supporting, so that's unacceptable in my view.

The rule of thumb to work with is thread diameter +20% for thread engagement. This makes the BOLT the weakest point; not the thread.

If I was your engineer I'd have made it a requirement to replicate the captive thread BEHIND the rail rather than tapping a thread into the rail.

You could correct this by sliding a nut in and tightening, or using a tapped steel plate 10mm thick instead of a nut.

Either that or I'd have required a flat bar rail between the original mounting points (10x40mm) and then new tapped holes in that to pick up the rail mounts. Countersunk high tensile screws would keep everything flush on the underside of the 10x40mm intermediate rail.

I've been fabricating for over 20 years now, and OVERKILL is the only way to go on critical parts.