Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next on the list was the SAU NSW Tech night with Just Engine Management... Was kind of handy as i had to go there to drop the car anyway -

IMG_9489_zps27203956.jpg

IMG_9487_zps76823eff.jpg

IMG_9503_zps11dbb129.jpg

IMG_9504_zpse44e8810.jpg

IMG_9498_zps6e13f0a1.jpg

you need to remove the daily part from this thread... it may as well be a dedicated track nugget, hasn't seen a public road almost all year! :P

Yeah well one day ill get it moved to the Motorsport section as its certainly something i enjoy doing and will be doing a lot more!

that nulon thing seems interesting, but ive done next to nothing to stand out this year and well without 11ty billion KW time attack will make me look bad

Yeah it looks interesting, my aim is for 2015 anyway but if this happened to come up then it would be a good bit of fun! :)

Got an answer out of Mat for the size offsets of his Work XT7s if anyone else is interested.

F - 18 x 8.5 +32

R - 18 x 9.5 +38

Lol about bloody time he says :P

I have had so many people ask me and its only now i have finally checked haha... Thanks for posting it up as a reminder ;)

hmm no wonder you can fit them 285 under the guard you have that extra 8mm.My 275 are like 5mm away from the guard with the struct loaded.

I measured the 275 Hankook RS3 vs the 265 Hankook Z221 yesterday just for interest.

Hankook RS3 275 = roughly 275mm

Hankook Z221 265 = roughly 280mm

Was only done with a tape measure so it wasn't accurate but you can see side by side the Z221 is a bigger tyre!

is it a semi if i it is i was also told by a tyre sho that semis are always wider than they say. Had 255 RSR federals and were same size as my Michelin PS2 265.

Yep semis...

ive got a semi thinkin about semi's

will probs buy myself some 10" rears soon to run some awesome 295's :D

Put up a DIY thread if you do as 275 seems to be the limit for my guards even with the rolling... I assume you could pump the rear guards but i have never tried this...

No major updates with the car at this stage, apart from the fact its running again...

Seat rails should arrive this week so i can fit the cheap seats in to stop the harnesses cutting my neck... That is about all i can say for now :ph34r:

I measured the 275 Hankook RS3 vs the 265 Hankook Z221 yesterday just for interest.

Hankook RS3 275 = roughly 275mm

Hankook Z221 265 = roughly 280mm

Was only done with a tape measure so it wasn't accurate but you can see side by side the Z221 is a bigger tyre!

That is interesting, I have 275/35/19 RS-3s for daily and just got 265/35/18 Z221s for track and I swore the 265 Z221s are wider

That is interesting, I have 275/35/19 RS-3s for daily and just got 265/35/18 Z221s for track and I swore the 265 Z221s are wider

Yep i only noticed as they were stacked together :) Will explain why they contact teh front guards haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...