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Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Welcome Back, any dose videos? lol

😂

Lots of whistlin going on these days... Look at the Facebook vid 😈

3 minutes ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

😂

Lots of whistlin going on these days... Look at the Facebook vid 😈

haha just had a squiz/listen - you on IG bruvva?

I rarely use FB.. cbf

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

haha just had a squiz/listen - you on IG bruvva?

I rarely use FB.. cbf

Same, don't use FB or IG these days... Wife posts stuff for me on our Wootten Racing page lol

Will hopefully have more footage soon anyway!

 

 

You could get her to setup an IG account and when you post on FB it automatically goes to IG :) 

Hopefully we can race together somewhere, some day, (hopefully not in my R33) lol...

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 29/10/2022 at 2:11 PM, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Out of curiosity, is it too much power for a small track like that? Did you go more than half throttle at any time? :)

There was a guy driving the same track in a go kart in the related videos. It's interesting seeing the contrast. In the kart it feels like tons of space and lots of full throttle. Can't really compare the two but makes me wonder whether it suits the track more. Here's a link with timestamp of the lap start.

1 minute ago, soviet_merlin said:

Out of curiosity, is it too much power for a small track like that? Did you go more than half throttle at any time? :)

There was a guy driving the same track in a go kart in the related videos. It's interesting seeing the contrast. In the kart it feels like tons of space and lots of full throttle. Can't really compare the two but makes me wonder whether it suits the track more. Here's a link with timestamp of the lap start.

@soviet_merlin Power levels are probably OK but the tyre grip available not so much... And no, most of it was part throttle or short shifting to keep the rear of the car settled as anything over a few PSI boost saw it sideways. Later in the day I changed lines to try better suit the car but was also being mindful that the rear of the car was getting pretty close to concrete on a few occasions.

There were shifter karts there on the day as well and they are tiny compared to the heavyweight R34 so its impossible to compare the 2 in lap times, speeds and lines etc... 150kg vs 1500kg lol

I'll go back again on better rubber and will soften the rear of the car and probably go a couple of seconds quicker with some cleaner less conservative lines. We were there to test a few things on the car which went pretty well, had limited E85 and 2016 tyres so weren't really prepped for fast laps!

  • Like 1
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Post test updates...

Car is working near perfect with only a few minor tweaks to the brakes needed and some fresh rubber before next time out on track. We tested a new breather setup and although it looks a bit ghetto it worked perfectly with nothing but ethanol vapour in the bottle after about 70 laps. Ghetto diff breather also worked with no oil issue at all now.

Rear suspension was good, need to get the car on a bigger circuit to feel car balance but I think we've gone from too much understeer to potentially an oversteer situation but will test at SMSP or similar before I make any changes. The rear is planted and very stable with the solid subframe and inserts - 

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One issue we had at the hillclimb track which has been an issue in the past is the diff breather line filling with oil and acting as a siphon due to the routing, add a cheapo fuel filter to separate air bubbles from oil and had no issues at all, can't actually see any oil at all which is a good start. This setup is temporary for testing - 

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The engine breather setup has been giving me hassles for years with around 4 different shops having their own attempts at fabbing catch cans with none of them working... After so many attempts I tried to isolate where the oil was coming from whether it be the sump or the cam covers but still not 100% sure. This setup has a return to sump with modified one way valve (thanks to DVS Jez) and had breathers running from 1 cam cover and also from the block to equalize pressure. In standard form it would pull oil into the air filter and didn't work. I added the Boost Doc cam plates to the back and still found the same issue occurring so decided to remove the return to the intake and run it into a Soda Stream bottle and also to give the oil in the cam covers a chance to separate air and oil by running up to a secondary cylinder (Again thanks to DVS Jez for the lend). Using all scrap bits and fittings I had laying around the shed I mocked up the design below and test all day with perfect results, so I will be looking to get a proper neater version made up at some stage - 

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The car looked so good once back together! Over the past few years it's been apart numerous times and having it all back in one bit and out and about was a good feeling!

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Our Go Pro was a POS as usual... Between the old Go Pro 3 that is flogged and worn out and the newer Go Pro 8 that has terrible battery life and a mind of its own we haven't managed to get much footage from the past few events 💩

I'll work on that for the next time out on track.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 3

Is your catch can vent to atmosphere? A bit hard to see in your photos.

You will need it with big boost and a motor that may have slightly bigger ring gaps for big power. On boost the crank case will need to breathe through the oil galleries then through the head/cam covers/head drain (crank case vent really). Sure the sump oil return is there to "return" oil but you'll find it will end up being another crank case vent on boost lol. The one way valve is a neat trick however you'll just overwhelm the other paths.

I think to really get this to work, you'll need 2x sump vents (either side) to a catch can, cam covers to the catch can and a big atmospheric vent. The 2x sump vents will also act as drains when needed. 

FWIW, I have a 5.5L catch can in my shit box. So far the trip to Luddenham for its first shakedown has shown the setup works.

 

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Is your catch can vent to atmosphere? A bit hard to see in your photos.

You will need it with big boost and a motor that may have slightly bigger ring gaps for big power. On boost the crank case will need to breathe through the oil galleries then through the head/cam covers/head drain (crank case vent really). Sure the sump oil return is there to "return" oil but you'll find it will end up being another crank case vent on boost lol. The one way valve is a neat trick however you'll just overwhelm the other paths.

I think to really get this to work, you'll need 2x sump vents (either side) to a catch can, cam covers to the catch can and a big atmospheric vent. The 2x sump vents will also act as drains when needed. 

FWIW, I have a 5.5L catch can in my shit box. So far the trip to Luddenham for its first shakedown has shown the setup works.

 

 

 

 

Yep the bottle is in the back left of the engine bay as a temporary ghetto fix.

Engine is built pretty tight as far as I know and boost is pretty low also.

There is a crankcase vent line from the left side of the block to catch can as well as sump return with one way valve. The upper can breathes through the Racepace one and all seems good so far.

Will see how it goes at higher RPM and longer loaded tracks 🤞

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
4 minutes ago, Roy said:

Needs a 2023 update. What are the plans?

Spanner check over the holidays revealed a minor issue - 

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So I will be removing the hotside first and getting someone to hopefully helicoil the head in the car! If not, engine out again which really isn't a good start to 2023 lol

Brakes were originally priority on the lid with front rotors warped and needing machining and then once that is sorted I need to work out the front brake locking issues which could be partially shit rubber and also the corner weights in the front of the car are on the piss!

2023 will be about getting as much seat time as possible and more time in the 34 than the 86, I may even offload the 86 in the near future so I can focus on the Skyline as number 1 priority!

If the hotside comes off again it will all go up for sale and someone will get themselves a killer combination capable of a lot more power than its seen, the turbo is a brand new ally unit and has done the dyno runs, one hillclimb day and a track day and hasn't seen over 21psi. The reason for the change will be to eliminate failure points and simplify the whole setup, after having to remove the hotside twice now I realised that the fanboi spec manifold and twin gates with twin returns and all the bells and whistles is not worth the hassle on a race car and is better suited to a well built street car that can be set and forget!

Initial thoughts are to go a ARTEC Manifold, G series Garrett (I had a good run with the 3037 and 3076) and bigger single gate so everything is V band and simple simple! I'm yet to discuss with Jez about this as I would need to weight up the turbo size vs application!

Still need a heap of smaller jobs sorted and some rubber but the car was mostly good to go after the last day and the only reason I found the stud issue was track maintainance as I was keen to get back on track in January! That will have to wait for a bit now but hopefully Feb at the latest as CSCA super sprints start in April from what I saw and I wouldn't mind getting some of those done again!

Also want to get to Winton again this year and try some other tracks as well, first thing is get it running and semi reliable and then worry about where to take it!

Good'nuf? 😎

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Would something like a Sinco manifold work?

I have been running a T3 T/S manifold from Sinco for 2x motors now - no complaints, even with a 50mm Turbosmart EWG it clears the ABS pump too! Has seen 4x track days, 1x skid pan, 3x dyno sessions with at least 30~40 hard dyno pulls (me tuning). No warping, no exhaust leaks, etc.

All the twin scroll benefits, however via a single gate (each scroll is split all the way to the wastegate seat/valve). Reduces the complexities of trying to control 2x external gates.

The one pictures below is a T4 (probably more suitable for the turbo you might be going for). The T3 version sits like a regular 6Boost single scroll T3 manifold.

w2400h1350-ovdbojtxf.jpg

 

This is what I have:

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I have no boost control issues too using a 4 port solenoid, just the only thing I needed to do to stop boost creeping was to run the solenoid at 12hz instead of the 25hz Haltech recommends. I have full boost control from 0.5bar all the way to 2bar.

  • Like 1

That eliminates part of the issue but is still pretty complex and has the turbo gasket plus heaps of welds around the manifold etc... I am trying to eliminate as many failure points as possible and also stay stainless due to the E85 etc

The old 6Boost split the collector from prolonged use on E85 and I've head other stories of bits flying through rear turbo wheels etc... So trying to keep it simple and reliable!

 

 

  • Like 2

All valid points!

Must admit they are sexy as fk, whenever they release a twin scroll, single gate version for our shit box RBs I might be tempted to get one (they have it for JZs and Barra motors already).

I believe @mr_rbman will be the 1st Skyline on this forum to be running an Artec manifold

Might be worth exchanging some ideas.

  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

All valid points!

Must admit they are sexy as fk, whenever they release a twin scroll, single gate version for our shit box RBs I might be tempted to get one (they have it for JZs and Barra motors already).

I believe @mr_rbman will be the 1st Skyline on this forum to be running an Artec manifold

Might be worth exchanging some ideas.

All going to plan I should have some results later this month, early next month...

The Artec manifold is a very nice piece of kit, though I went the titanium stud kit at the same time and the lower two forward nuts are impossible to do up with a conventional socket or ring spanner so it has it's flaws. Like with much of the PRP stuff etc. you don't hear much about the cons of their products, only people flaunting the pros... I bought a cheap 12mm ring spanner today to modify which will hopefully allow me to get them done up tight...

  • Like 3

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