34Geeteetee Daily / Track Project

[34GeeTeeTee]

 

Well that didnt go to plan...

Tailshaft is down at Gibsons getting a replacement yoke due to the damage.

Gearbox is on its way to Newcastle Gearbox and Diff to check to see why/how the rear bush/bearing failed.

Won't elaborate much on the issue as yet as I have NFI what was the initial cause.... TBA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

Vibrations at speed are very bad. At least good to find it out now and get it sorted.
With that all fixed you'll be able to focus on just driving, will go pretty quick then.

[Kinkstaah]

... single pieces go over critical speed in R34's. The calculation I did with mine was a single piece that wasn't made of any exotic material will go critical as soon as you shift into 5th gear (i.e 200kmh), after being very nearly at the limit at the limiter in 4th (i.e your 1:1 gear), so 7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM.

If you max out 5th gear (assuming 0.8 ratio) you now have 7000 / 0.8 = 8750rpm.

A single piece for car like yours at a track like SMSP is going to have to be made out of some kind of exotic material or be a two piece. From memory mine was 50"

Consult this image:

https://www.markwilliams.com/images/critspeed.jpg

[The Bogan]

15 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

... single pieces go over critical speed in R34's. The calculation I did with mine was a single piece that wasn't made of any exotic material will go critical as soon as you shift into 5th gear (i.e 200kmh), after being very nearly at the limit at the limiter in 4th (i.e your 1:1 gear), so 7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM.

If you max out 5th gear (assuming 0.8 ratio) you now have 7000 / 0.8 = 8750rpm.

A single piece for car like yours at a track like SMSP is going to have to be made out of some kind of exotic material or be a two piece. From memory mine was 50"

Consult this image:

https://www.markwilliams.com/images/critspeed.jpg

I went through this with Hardy Spicer a while ago with my tail shaft rebuild (2 piece)

The sciencey stuff IRT harmonics, tailshaft RPM and the "angles of the dangles" between the transmission and diff was quite interesting

Whilst not a shiny thing that most people think about, the tail shaft sciencey stuff is essential for reliability (loosing at tail shaft at high speed can be interesting apparently)

[34GeeTeeTee]

Thanks heaps for the info! Will run it past the guys at Gibsons before the repair!

 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM.

I think Matt is going into Honda RPMs like 8000+ RPM.

Vibrations and harmonics would be intense at those RPMs.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Box is off for repairs.

2pc tailshaft should be in the works this week.

 

[The Bogan]

6 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Box is off for repairs.

2pc tailshaft should be in the works this week.

 

Who's doing your tailshaft, what specs and shizz?

[Komdotkom]

I'm also keen to hear about your 2 piece and the specs. My HGT finally arrived yesterday so a custom made 2 piece tailshaft is in my future.

[34GeeTeeTee]

On 21/08/2023 at 1:44 PM, Kinkstaah said:

... single pieces go over critical speed in R34's. The calculation I did with mine was a single piece that wasn't made of any exotic material will go critical as soon as you shift into 5th gear (i.e 200kmh), after being very nearly at the limit at the limiter in 4th (i.e your 1:1 gear), so 7000rpm in 4th is 7000 tailshaft RPM.

If you max out 5th gear (assuming 0.8 ratio) you now have 7000 / 0.8 = 8750rpm.

A single piece for car like yours at a track like SMSP is going to have to be made out of some kind of exotic material or be a two piece. From memory mine was 50"

Consult this image:

https://www.markwilliams.com/images/critspeed.jpg

Thanks, this was really helpful! Sent it to Gibsons.

I originally asked for a 2pc OEM style shaft to replace the worn factory one, this was what I asked Hardy Spicer to do originally and after a long battle with them (2 years) I got a refund and no OEM shaft back from them.

Will post updates on the shaft once its done with pics and also specs. 

 

On 21/08/2023 at 2:06 PM, The Bogan said:

I went through this with Hardy Spicer a while ago with my tail shaft rebuild (2 piece)

The sciencey stuff IRT harmonics, tailshaft RPM and the "angles of the dangles" between the transmission and diff was quite interesting

Whilst not a shiny thing that most people think about, the tail shaft sciencey stuff is essential for reliability (loosing at tail shaft at high speed can be interesting apparently)

Fk Hardy Spicer! One of the worst companies I have dealt with in all the years I have done automotive stuff. I try to give everyone benefit of the doubt but they were a pack of liars and thief's!

I wasn't the only one at the time as others had left 1 star reviews on their page for the exact same reasons, empty promises, poor service and when they did supply a shaft eventually it wasn't even remotely close to correct.

Getting a refund was hard work but finally got it and then head to Gibsons Driveshaft Services. 

 

On 21/08/2023 at 5:17 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I think Matt is going into Honda RPMs like 8000+ RPM.

Vibrations and harmonics would be intense at those RPMs.

Rev limit is set to 8300rpm on the RB28 but I rarely go north of 7000rpm as I try to have some mechanical sympathy occasionally!

On 22/08/2023 at 5:08 PM, The Bogan said:

Who's doing your tailshaft, what specs and shizz?

Gibsons Driveshaft Services.

Yes, we had an issue with the single piece shaft and it was recommended to go that way which I feel was a mistake, but it didn't cause any catastrophic failures and can be fixed so I am more than happy to let them rectify the issue by building the 2pc shaft. I already had the new Nissan OEM centre bearing from last year when I asked for the 2pc originally so all they need to do is fab up the rest as a replacement and hopefully everything goes smoothly.

I'm out of pocket $500-1000 for gearbox repairs, oils, labours etc but as long as we can get it resolved and the car goes back to how it should have been I'll be happy! 

Specs and images will follow once its complete!

On 23/08/2023 at 8:21 AM, Komdotkom said:

I'm also keen to hear about your 2 piece and the specs. My HGT finally arrived yesterday so a custom made 2 piece tailshaft is in my future.

Will post what I can online once its done! Will ask the guys at Gibsons to provide any info they can and will also post their details on here is everything goes smoothly and you can get them to assist.

 

 

[34GeeTeeTee]

Pretty beat up from the vibrations! It destroyed the dust shield and rear housing is pretty beat up but I'll get it all back looking decent with a bit of paint and new parts etc..

Ghetto paint job, not the prettiest but after a second coat and all accessories back on it wont be an issue.

Ordered another dust shield and hand filed the rear housing the best I can. Will paint the shield black and refit so it all looks like it did originally.

Fresh gearbox oil will be the next thing on the cards, have been running Motul oils in gearbox and diff but may switch to something I can find locally so its cheaper and easier to change on a more regular basis as the oil was pretty cooked when I dropped it and hadn't done a lot of track days.

Clutch was left on the engine as its still near new, I'll just clean up the dust and give it some graphite powder and send it again. New clutch fluid will be done as well as Ive done the brake fluid each round but forget to check the clutch!

 

 

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

Wow it smashed that dust cover.

I found the penrite stuff ok but change it every 3-6 months pending how many times I drive the car. I really should track the Km's and hours used for acurracy.

Funny enough while fixing my rear gearbox seal and diff side seal, inspected the tailshaft and found all the uni's flogged. Hardy's wanted over $1200 to fix just the uni's and found a local shop to do it for $900 with new centre bearing and yoke too.

[34GeeTeeTee]

1 minute ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Wow it smashed that dust cover.

I found the penrite stuff ok but change it every 3-6 months pending how many times I drive the car. I really should track the Km's and hours used for acurracy.

Funny enough while fixing my rear gearbox seal and diff side seal, inspected the tailshaft and found all the uni's flogged. Hardy's wanted over $1200 to fix just the uni's and found a local shop to do it for $900 with new centre bearing and yoke too.

That's not the dust cover, that's the bush from inside the rear of the gearbox (Behind the shaft seal) hence why the sound was getting louder as the yoke tried to machine its way out of the gearbox! Scary shit... Oil was nice and sparkly as a result so not ideal by any means!

Penrite Pro Gear 75-90 synthetic stuff? I've been belting that in the 86 gearbox and seems fine.

Hardys is a joke! Would never recommend... I've always been one to keep dirty laundry off forums and social media but anything to do with Hardy Spicer or that asshat at Fabtech I'd recommend avoiding at all costs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

1 minute ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

That's not the dust cover, that's the bush from inside the rear of the gearbox (Behind the shaft seal) hence why the sound was getting louder as the yoke tried to machine its way out of the gearbox! Scary shit... Oil was nice and sparkly as a result so not ideal by any means!

Penrite Pro Gear 75-90 synthetic stuff? I've been belting that in the 86 gearbox and seems fine.

Hardys is a joke! Would never recommend... I've always been one to keep dirty laundry off forums and social media but anything to do with Hardy Spicer or that asshat at Fabtech I'd recommend avoiding at all costs!

 

WOW..........

Yeah that's the stuff.
I am the same generally but there are cases where things need to be known. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

asshat at Fabtech

Lolololol... Fabtech no longer exist too, mysteriously fked off.

Your buddies at Ross Performance aren't any better, the karnts have ghosted me after the whole PS idler issue. I ended up spacing the bracket with 2x washers and Loctite its mum to ancillaries bracket.

 

[34GeeTeeTee]

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Lolololol... Fabtech no longer exist too, mysteriously fked off.

Your buddies at Ross Performance aren't any better, the karnts have ghosted me after the whole PS idler issue. I ended up spacing the bracket with 2x washers and Loctite its mum to ancillaries bracket.

 

He still exists... Just keeps popping up at Big Name places and stays low key I believe... 

Surprised to hear you had issues with Ross? They supplied my idler back when they first took over the business and I haven't flipped a belt since... Was it offset to the belt when fitted or something? 

[The Bogan]

1 hour ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Fk Hardy Spicer! One of the worst companies I have dealt with in all the years I have done automotive stuff. I try to give everyone benefit of the doubt but they were a pack of liars and thief's!

I wasn't the only one at the time as others had left 1 star reviews on their page for the exact same reasons, empty promises, poor service and when they did supply a shaft eventually it wasn't even remotely close to correct.

I have nothing to say bad about them at their Moorebank location 

I really don't pay attention to internet feedback on any workshop, to open to negative feedback from randoms or competition, typically I rely on word of mouth

When I initially went in for a chat they talked to me for a while about what I needed IRT my power and stuff

Hence why I still have the OEM 2 piece tailshaft 

I was originally looking for a custom 1 piece or 2 piece, they said that are happy to build me whatever spec I request, but, the OEM shaft for my car and the power and revs it would see would be fine, they also talked a bit on the need to get the gearbox, front shaft and centre bearing right for reliability 

I'm not sure how the angle of the dangle translates to your chassis, but getting it right is really important on the VX

The old shaft was dropped of on one day, and ready to pick up the next day fully reco'd and balanced up, as for cost, it actually came in under the initial quote price by a little bit, which from my time dealing with workshops is unheard of

Plus, I was happy to spend whatever was required if needed, their honesty saved me quite a lot of dollars, one of the places I looked at was GJDrivelines, whilst that was rated higher (which wasn't needed for my application), it was over $1k more IIRC

Which location did you use?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

5 minutes ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Surprised to hear you had issues with Ross? They supplied my idler back when they first took over the business and I haven't flipped a belt since... Was it offset to the belt when fitted or something? 

Yeah the kit doesn't work with R33 RB25s as the PS pulley is a 3 rib not 4 rib like the R34 RB25. Because of that the offset is wrong and using the RB26 spacer that is supplied doesn't support the belt properly. Using it without the spacer the idler fouls with the AC belt.

All they really needed to do was machine down a RB26 spacer to make it work on a R33 RB25 with AC. I suppose people spitting belts, generally don't have AC.

[The Bogan]

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah the kit doesn't work with R33 RB25s as the PS pulley is a 3 rib not 4 rib like the R34 RB25. Because of that the offset is wrong and using the RB26 spacer that is supplied doesn't support the belt properly. Using it without the spacer the idler fouls with the AC belt.

All they really needed to do was machine down a RB26 spacer to make it work on a R33 RB25 with AC. I suppose people spitting belts, generally don't have AC.

I kept spitting PS belts with a Ross balancer on my 25/30, Unigroup did some measurements and found the alignment was off, but after using some small washers on the PS bracket it was OK

Yes it was a 25/30, but that was explained when the trigger kit was purchased, albeit over 10 years ago

[34GeeTeeTee]

9 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

I have nothing to say bad about them at their Moorebank location 

I really don't pay attention to internet feedback on any workshop, to open to negative feedback from randoms or competition, typically I rely on word of mouth

When I initially went in for a chat they talked to me for a while about what I needed IRT my power and stuff

Hence why I still have the OEM 2 piece tailshaft 

I was originally looking for a custom 1 piece or 2 piece, they said that are happy to build me whatever spec I request, but, the OEM shaft for my car and the power and revs it would see would be fine, they also talked a bit on the need to get the gearbox, front shaft and centre bearing right for reliability 

I'm not sure how the angle of the dangle translates to your chassis, but getting it right is really important on the VX

The old shaft was dropped of on one day, and ready to pick up the next day fully reco'd and balanced up, as for cost, it actually came in under the initial quote price by a little bit, which from my time dealing with workshops is unheard of

Plus, I was happy to spend whatever was required if needed, their honesty saved me quite a lot of dollars, one of the places I looked at was GJDrivelines, whilst that was rated higher (which wasn't needed for my application), it was over $1k more IIRC

Which location did you use?

Newcastle Branch! Look at their Google reviews as a guide, its either 5 star or 1 star which always raises my concerns... About the same time I was having major issues they got 2 reviews at 1 star for the same complaint so I can only imagine how many others were getting screwed at the same time... Normally I am pretty forgiving but lying to people and not giving a fk is unacceptable in business no matter what name you have behind you.

I always try to give local businesses a fair go but this one was way out of line for any business! Anyway, enough rant!

Also Hardy was trying to charge $2250 for the same thing Gibsons did for $900 and in next to no time! Yes I had an issue being single piece but so far their reaction and professional approach to the problem has been good, no way I would have got the same at Hardys!