Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 804
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ahk, previous owner did the conversion on my car and I got pinged at the pits for the crossmember not bolting up to all 4 holes. It sounds pretty picky but I'd like to fix it anyway regardless of the defect. Just learning now about all the RB crossmembers (A, B and C) and S13 crossmembers as well (also A, B and C).

I have done some research and looks like most people say an SR20 manual crossmember (labeled 'C') fits.

I think when my conversion was done the auto crossmember was used and had flat bar welded to it so all 4 bolts were used

Pretty much what I did for the 25 box conversion but the other way. Used 5mm flatbar to extend the RB20 manual Xmember to pick up all 4 bolts holes (25 box mounts are further back)

Yeah fabricating something to fit is the best bet but I can't weld and don't have any time to take it anywhere haha. I think I'm going to get an S13 one this afternoon and see if it fits.

I haven't quite got my head around it all... I'm not sure if there's A, B and C mounts for EACH car (Skyline and Silvia) or just those 3 mounts that universally are used on both chassis.

Here's a pic (all are facing the same way), seems like I need the top mount.

DSC02171.jpg

Sorry to hijack the 32 thread with completely confusing and boring content.

I have the middle one but it sits too far forward. The bottom one is a custom one.

I will go out on a limb and say you have an R32 GTSt MANUAL Xmember.. I had to extend my holes with flatbar because the mounts on the 25t box are 50mm further back than the 20t box.

If it *looked* strong enough I don't see why not..

75PFC with 5mm flatbar extensions for the holes a gusset on each leg and decent welding (read: not dodgy looking) should be fine if you wanted to make one from scratch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
    • I could see someone trying this to save money on oil changes.
×
×
  • Create New...