Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

N/A, you should stop chasing up this useless thread and get yourself to a proper motorcycling forum like this one. There is a lot of useless info in here, a lot of it downright inaccurate.

I currently own a CBR250RR.....Its a great bike to ride but lacking in the power dept.

When I upgarde in a few years I'll be looking more at the 400cc bikes...

I reckon the Honda RVF is a great looking bike:

http://bikepoint.ninemsn.com.au/market/Use...68838&Year=2004

Just want to touch on the topic again of car drivers etc being the cause of bike crashes. I myself have shit bricks when changing lanes and from nowhere it seems like the bike has just appeared beside me. Please be careful dude.

A workmate who had been a rider since he could walk saved his arse off for his dream bike, R6. His parents would only let him get it if he got all brand new and top quality safety gear to go with it. He finally got it and two weeks later we were looking at him in the hospital. A courier van driver took him out. No feeling in right arm or left leg. Was in wheel chair for over a year. He is ok now albeit for a limp as one leg is now shorter than the other. The doctors said the safety gear saved him from even more serious injury.

I cringe when I see guys on high powered bikes up on one wheel with shorts, runners and a t-shirt.

Full leathers saved my life, i was in the left lane and a plumber in an old holden did not look and he had no mirrors and he took me out i hit his front left panel and then went over the bonnet i hit the ground at about 80km and the only thing stopping me hitting a poll at that speed was the leather gripping the road and roling me. best $1000 i ever spent.

as for the RS250 v`s the R1 i do believe the R1 would be close at 400m and i agree it would take the RS250 at high speed but i can tell you first hand that a 2001 RS250 will pull ahead of a 2002 R1 (i was on the RS250) and i had to back off to keep the thing on 1 wheel. the power band on the RS250 is such that you can`t open it full or you will turf it. unless you know what ur doing. and although i have riden it for 2 years now i still do not dare open it full. its good that you want to ride a bike and i still do it every day, and when you look at costs it would make sense, i get 250km out of $7 on my everyday run around bike(which is for sale at the mo) it is an older style virago 250 cruser) but these are not toys to have fun on, it is very unlikly that when u crash you will kill anyone else, but the risk is far greater that if you crash you will NOT walk away.

on a happier side of things a good friend of mine is an RTA rider trainer, and he pulled some facts for me,

the 3rd most common cause of a crash where to motorbike is at fault is on a straight road near shopping centers and stuff like that, theses crashes where harmless and what was happening was the rider was checking him/herself out in the shop windows and talking his eyes off the road and running up the back of a car at only 40km-60km,

the most common crash casued by a bike is around corners and second is in the wet.

so all i can say is be careful and don`t check yourself out.

Franks, I don't mean to be condescending here but I seriously think you should stick to what you know and stop giving uninformed opinions. Leathers will not stop you dying on hard impact. But they will stop you losing vast amounts of skin on the tarmac if you don't hit anything. And if you think the most common type of accident is one where you hit something, think again. I have been off more times than I can count, and I have yet to hit something.

Your analogy between road rash and skydiving is pretty stupid to be honest.

uninformed? i dont think it takes much knowledge to understand that you hitting something or something hitting you is clearly life threatening.

i do understand and can appreciate how leathers can protect you from road rash - i never questioned this. i enjoy a bit of road cycling myself and i have been, and i have hit a motor vehicle before, so i can appreciate any kind of protective clothing even something as little as gloves go a long long way.

but that wasn't my point.....

my manager has an R1 that he rides to work on everyday and a Gixxer1000 track bike that he takes to EC and Phillip Island, he is a very serious biker who spends alot of the time on the roads. i dont believe he has had a major accident before, that said, another friend was in hospital for months and now has steel pins in his legs - my point is, it only takes 1 hit for it to be a serious one (hence the skydiving analogy) and leathers are not going to protect you from this.

o.k firstly, the RS250 will line up against an R1 anyday and pull ahead, any of those bikes you had up here would be blown away by a 250, it is a 2 stroke and is one of the quickest bikes on the road, and by the sounds of you it is to big for you, so are these bikes, if you get pulled over kiss your car lisence good-buy, if you have one that is.

it is not the skill level of you it is other people on the road, you do not think this untill you have been run off the road and into a poll by a plumber like i did(i put a f**king big dent in his door might i add) when you start riding you get 1 point and if you lose 1 point on your car you lose your bike as well, then it goes p`s for about 1 year with 4 points, and again if you lose 4 points on your car then u lose you bike as well,

these are not toys, if you hit something in a car so be it if you hit something in a bike say goodbuy to an arm or a leg, or your life.

good luck matey, let us know when you are catching the train to work.

sorry but unless ur racing around a gocart track there is no way a rs is gonna pull away from any of those bikes especially not the r1. yes it maybe quicker around corners but in therms of on the throttle pull it just doesnt have the power and will be mowed down on any straight.

N/A

for me. these two are very similar, power, the way of how it run, but stick the the best deal you can get..at end of day, you are the only one knoe what you really need..

as my own experience:

R6, tent to be a bit unstable if you open throttle to early exist the cornor, that's how I felt..feel free to drop me a PM.

I agree with you jimx ! havnt droped the busa yet and dont want to but been down the road more times than i can poke a stick at leathers have seen better days too i always wear my riding gear on a bike mate a mine didnt and he paid the ultamet price at christmas

he just droped the bike going round a bend at doyleson and hit one a them wire strings they have in the middle of the road these days , he wasnt all in one peice either no safty gear on at all shorts and t shirt rider poor bastard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...