Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry typo I meant HID. I bought my car with hid's already fitted to it it was working fine till about few weeks after only one would turn on so I though the bulb was out or something till another night I turned them on they both came on. I've had my car for about 2 years now and it takes me a few minutes of flicking on and off my lights for them both to work. Anyone else have the same problem? This is on an r32 gts4 with the older non projector type headlights

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358622-hid-problems/
Share on other sites

Yea mate mine does the exact same thing, the ballast is buggered.

Havent got the cash 2 throw at a new set so i just drive on my fog lights atm, if u drive for a half hour or so then the ballast seems to store enough energy to make the light work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358622-hid-problems/#findComment-5729920
Share on other sites

Yea mate mine does the exact same thing, the ballast is buggered.

Havent got the cash 2 throw at a new set so i just drive on my fog lights atm, if u drive for a half hour or so then the ballast seems to store enough energy to make the light work

You drive on your fog lights??? ohmy.gif Mine gives stuff all light....

Try taking the high beam bulbs out and chucking them in your lows. That should sort you out until you get the cash to fix em

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358622-hid-problems/#findComment-5738495
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...