Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you have been mis-informed, no-one here has fitted anything other than a highflow as far as I know. I am about to start work on a manifold adapter to run a GTX30 but it is a month off yet. Why don't you like the highflow? It would be a cheaper option as nothing else will bolt up. A t28 isn't the answer, our stock housings flow better than those, even better than the r34's op7.

What sort of power are you looking for and who is doing the tuning?

To clarify , they gt28 was given as one of two options. The other being high flowing. Neither were given given preference from the tune shop. They expressed that both options were comparable.they said the gt28 comes with a adapter kit making it a fairly straight forward fit. The gt28 will work out more expensive but i wont have to wait while my turbo is high flowed. They said both will give the same sort of performance.

the car is the wifes daily drive but why shouldn't she be going fast. Lag is a concern of mine.

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have just done a gcg high flow. It was an engine out job. I got a 28/71 core. The power is increased a little and it is alot smoother. If your going to do the job I know a good place. Once the turbo was out I got the turbo rebuilt by ATS ask for Bill. He has done a few M35 turbos now.

Ive spoken to bill and he will remove and fit the turbo but he sends the turbo to Sydney to be high flowed. I been offered the same service for less coin. $1000 less which cant be ignored.

To clarify , they gt28 was given as one of two options. The other being high flowing. Neither were given given preference from the tune shop. They expressed that both options were comparable.they said the gt28 comes with a adapter kit making it a fairly straight forward fit. The gt28 will work out more expensive but i wont have to wait while my turbo is high flowed. They said both will give the same sort of performance.

the car is the wifes daily drive but why shouldn't she be going fast. Lag is a concern of mine.

They are offering you a "kit" which no-one has ever heard of, let alone tried. I guess you are on your own on that one. Let us know how it goes please and get some pics of the adapter for me.

So your turbo hasn't gone yet? Leave the stocker in, its definitely the best for daily driving duties and no lag at all. Just stick an Emanage Ultimate on it.

after more investigation , the real story is to modify the existing housing to accommodated a garret ball bearing spool. doing this changes the housing dimensions by 16mm. To then have this fitted requires more modification to the cast air pipe and a lot of d#%king around.The end result is better than the normal high flow option. But the normal option being a far less complicated procedure, that has proven its worth time after time. Not being overly keen to make things to modified i'm going to take all your advice and go with the standard high flow option. Thank you everyone for their input . I have also decided to install an e-manage ultimate at the same time. But none of this until the front mount is done which is booked in for Monday week. The rest will be depending on how fast i can find another turbo to be high flowed before the car is taken off the road. Can't afford to be to long with out the family car.

The Garret bb option you speak of is what I have done....was a bit of dicking around.....but I'm happy with in now....mine was done with a gt30/71 core.

+1 i was very impressed with the numbers it put out!

Can't afford to be to long with out the family car.

Which is exactly why heavily modifying it may not be a great idea. Its ok if you are able to work on it your self and repair it continuously but if you are relying on workshops to do all your work, and they cant get you in when theres a problem (and there will be many) you will never be happy. The stock car with perhaps an Emanage is the go, its all downhill from there imo.

Check this out:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360130-eoi-z33-circuit-car-part-out/

rebuilt VQ35DET with APS kit...pushing out ~450rwhp...

Am I the only one to think that's a pretty low number for a 20k upgrade? (engine + turbo + ecu+ other shit)

Then again max power isn't everything I suppose!

Just different sized rear wheels, gives some idea on power levels I guess. Stage 1 should be good for 250awkw, stage 2, 275 and stage 3, 300, all dependant on supporting mods.

Garrett use the 3071 numbers, that would be the largest wheels you could machine into the stock housings, with a ball bearing core. Good for around 300awkw I would say.

rebuilt VQ35DET with APS kit...pushing out ~450rwhp...

Am I the only one to think that's a pretty low number for a 20k upgrade? (engine + turbo + ecu+ other shit)

Then again max power isn't everything I suppose!

11 psi.... That would be stock for you eh? How much does a VQ25det at the wheels stock? bout 200hp atw, maybe add a bit extra for driveline drag...

I'd say that'd be a 6-700hp engine set up depending on turbos/fuel. Just looked on the APS site - apparently turbos will flow 800ps of grunt at 16psi with a built engine.

Or about double what mine will flow....:glare:

Well for a 20k+ setup u hope it better do 6/700+ HP!!!

Depends how your spending the 20K....20K to build it and do a lot of the work yourself and 800PS+ on a VQ35 is very achievable.......20K and take it to someone else to do and 600PS is a pretty good number!

Edited by Jetwreck

11 psi.... That would be stock for you eh? How much does a VQ25det at the wheels stock? bout 200hp atw, maybe add a bit extra for driveline drag...

I'd say that'd be a 6-700hp engine set up depending on turbos/fuel. Just looked on the APS site - apparently turbos will flow 800ps of grunt at 16psi with a built engine.

Or about double what mine will flow....:glare:

140ish awkw for a completely stock VQ25det RS... so around the 190-200hp mark, yes.

Yeah, but yours is designed to bolt on to the stock engine, not a built one... plus you have 1 turbo, not two.

450ps is still around 315kw, so fun is to be had regardless of numbers :P

Depends how your spending the 20K....20K to build it and do a lot of the work yourself and 800PS+ on a VQ35 is very achievable.......20K and take it to someone else to do and 600PS is a pretty good number!

For $20k, you could get a built 3.8 or 4.2L VQ35 and use the spare thousands to setup a turbo kit to your specs.

Should be able to see BIG power and torque with that kind of money spend of a VQ35.

140ish awkw for a completely stock VQ25det RS... so around the 190-200hp mark, yes.

Yeah, but yours is designed to bolt on to the stock engine, not a built one... plus you have 1 turbo, not two.

450ps is still around 315kw, so fun is to be had regardless of numbers :P

For $20k, you could get a built 3.8 or 4.2L VQ35 and use the spare thousands to setup a turbo kit to your specs.

Should be able to see BIG power and torque with that kind of money spend of a VQ35.

Well according to that guy's advert, he spent 17k on the Haltech alone???

Not trying to say that he's got a crap setup but I would think for that kinda money spent you'd get more power....(responding to PN MAD's post)

140ish awkw for a completely stock VQ25det RS... so around the 190-200hp mark, yes.

Yeah, but yours is designed to bolt on to the stock engine, not a built one... plus you have 1 turbo, not two.

450ps is still around 315kw, so fun is to be had regardless of numbers :P

For $20k, you could get a built 3.8 or 4.2L VQ35 and use the spare thousands to setup a turbo kit to your specs.

Should be able to see BIG power and torque with that kind of money spend of a VQ35.

Who does the work though.

Less a Haltech PS2000 and the install and tune + markup! = $16,000 left. Then shipping/duty $14,000 left. Then workshop fee's for motor removal and install = $13,000 left. Then exhaust = $12,000 left. Fuel System = $10,000 left. Misc = $9,000 left

You now have $9,000 left to get to 800hp reliably!....how much are the 3.8lt or 4.2lt conversions? and then how much is turbo kit from the workshop going to charge?

Like I said 20K with you doing most of the work is good for at least 800HP.....a workshop doing most of the work at least 600HP....and I am talking with reliability.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi ๐Ÿ™‹โ€โ™‚๏ธ. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? ๐Ÿ˜ƒ  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this ๐Ÿ™
    • Hi, Marek here ๐Ÿ™‹โ€โ™‚๏ธ. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...