Rb26 Oil Pump Choices

[djr81]

I realise this has been done a number of times but as I am about to get my motor re done I would like to try & make sure what I understand to be the case is actually correct - plus get some opinions.

Question is this: Of the two options (see below - varying in flow rate & sump capacity) is the first sufficient or should I be spending the coin on number 2?

Basically the build is straight forward & nothing flash. Approx 500rwhp from a Rb26 for use at supersprints & hillclimbs. Forged pistons, mild cams etc etc. It has been going fine on option 1 for a few years but the rebuild will have another 100rwhp.

Anyway the question comes to the oiling options. As I see it there are two.

1. Stock sump with Tomei windage tray, N1 oil pump (For the new build I would like CNC ground replacement gears - is this the 81mm Reimax version?) & a 1.5mm restrictor

2. Higher volume sump, Nitto or Jun or similar aftermarket pump with 1.1mm head restrictor.

Please do not concern yourselves with oil in the head issues as for the purpose of the argument they dont count. Nor for what it is worth worry about rants on N1 pump reliability.

[R31Nismoid]

Option 1 will be fine.

Ensuring 1L of overfill in the stock sump. Plenty have done this without issue. only time issue has arisen is when they forget to overfill

Or, to throw a spanner in the works...

Option 1.5using all of option1, but changing sump. This setup is what most GTR's use. Only diff being stock N1 pump, no gear swap.

I think though the N1 and Nitto have the same flow rate? Meaning restrictor choice should be same across both.

[N1GTR]

So it's a vote?

I vote higher flow and smaller restrictor

Reimax gears in a N1 pump will probably end up costing close to buying a jap high flow pump by the time you buy both and them and put it together

Now, here come the VIC guys saying N1 pumps are awesome...

[SIR-032]

Howdy i" IT ALL COMES DOWN TO $$$COIN$$$ ! SIMPLE"

Option 1 is under a grand JPC.com (victoria) do N1 Billet Gears $350 ,N1 oil pump new from the states $200 ish tomei Sump baffle $200 ish (if you dont have one)

option 2 is over 2 grand Tomei pump and sump only way to go is the best and the rest start to stack underneath most are pretty good and nearly as good but none do a three peice gear like Tomei (just cant break them)

Okay

Option 1 will eventually fail depending on lots of stuff but another build will be needed later than sooner

Option 2 pretty much never a problem and the best option for a stock position Oil Pump and dearest also

Option 3 DRY Sump (external) oil issues on a race GTR Sorted if you have issue with oil its the last thing you will suspect

1.5mm restrictor is fine but if only doing track work and mostly in the 6000rpm plus ie no street cruzing then 1.1mm restrictor (Check Tomei website for this)

Good Luck

SIR-032

[N1GTR]

^Tomei is a fair bit less than $2k

[djr81]

Option 1 will be fine.

Ensuring 1L of overfill in the stock sump. Plenty have done this without issue. only time issue has arisen is when they forget to overfill

Or, to throw a spanner in the works...

Option 1.5using all of option1, but changing sump. This setup is what most GTR's use. Only diff being stock N1 pump, no gear swap.

I think though the N1 and Nitto have the same flow rate? Meaning restrictor choice should be same across both.

Problem is I cant find a stated flow rate for the N1 pump anywhere. Nitto is about 40% over standard (not N!1 which to my mind is approximately a *#%^ load of oil.

Can you confirm if this is correct: N1 is the 11 internal tooth pump (not teeth really being a Gerotor pump but you know what I mean) with a larger diameter than the standard pump (12 internal teeth)?

[djr81]

Howdy i" IT ALL COMES DOWN TO $$$COIN$$$ ! SIMPLE"

Option 1 is under a grand JPC.com (victoria) do N1 Billet Gears $350 ,N1 oil pump new from the states $200 ish tomei Sump baffle $200 ish (if you dont have one)

option 2 is over 2 grand Tomei pump and sump only way to go is the best and the rest start to stack underneath most are pretty good and nearly as good but none do a three peice gear like Tomei (just cant break them)

Okay

Option 1 will eventually fail depending on lots of stuff but another build will be needed later than sooner

Option 2 pretty much never a problem and the best option for a stock position Oil Pump and dearest also

Option 3 DRY Sump (external) oil issues on a race GTR Sorted if you have issue with oil its the last thing you will suspect

1.5mm restrictor is fine but if only doing track work and mostly in the 6000rpm plus ie no street cruzing then 1.1mm restrictor (Check Tomei website for this)

Good Luck

SIR-032

For what it is worth it has an N1 pump in it but that would get a new gear if re - used.

It already has a Tomei baffle too & gets 5 litres of Mobil 1 dumped in it every oil change.

It is not a question of dollars it is a question of getting the system to work harminiously - for me anyway.

You say option 1 will fail - due to the pump or due to flow rates?

Option 3 is not an option for me.

[TiTAN]

when you say 5L i assume it doesnt have any kind of remote filter/oil cooler then?

[SIR-032]

^Tomei is a fair bit less than $2k

"Pump and Sump "read the Thread properly Oil Pump Around $1600 Sump around the Same so with Oil Pump Sump and Front diff rebuild Around $3500 actually

[SIR-032]

^Tomei is a fair bit less than $2k

"Pump and Sump "read the Thread properly Oil Pump Around $1600 Sump around the Same so with Oil Pump Sump and Front diff rebuild Around $3500 actually

[R31Nismoid]

Option 1 will eventually fail depending on lots of stuff but another build will be needed later than sooner

Option 2 pretty much never a problem and the best option for a stock position Oil Pump and dearest also

One is eventually likely to fail but the other isn't?

Oh come on, thats just rubbish.

There is no credible shred of proof that stays using option 1 will invevitably lead to a rebuild, or that option 2 will totally avoid it.

A motor failing is no less likely with option 1, than it is with option 2.

The same risks/issues are present. The only thing that is different is the Tomei pump is stronger. Doesn't mean it wont break, doesn't mean its indestructable. Doesn't mean there are not 100 other possible reasons or area's that could kill the engine.

Problem is I cant find a stated flow rate for the N1 pump anywhere. Nitto is about 40% over standard (not N!1 which to my mind is approximately a *#%^ load of oil.

Can you confirm if this is correct: N1 is the 11 internal tooth pump (not teeth really being a Gerotor pump but you know what I mean) with a larger diameter than the standard pump (12 internal teeth)?

Indeed I've not seen them written anywhere.

Although a fair few posts around here seem to suggest anything other than stock - most of them are around the same.

[SIR-032]

R31 Nismoid You do not even know the flow rates of a RB26 oil pump So important mate !!! you loose credability straight away

I have just rebuild my motor and have done stacks of research and actually have done the tests and have also had the heartache

I am Right you are Wrong Simple admit it move on and shut the thread if you so choose to

Read what you want into it mate i have used general language and have not said definite rather probably and eventually

SAU is really given me well i dont know well maybe and i thinks

cany find real info mation on this damn round about of a way site you wanna know my experience PM me all ill tell you REAL life engine touching blowing up fixing INFO

Forget Cyber google Fringing Guess's PM me or leave my REAL opinion and facts alone

Have a great weekend EveryBloody

" what i wrote is not rubbish" and there are good reasons behind it

[N1GTR]

"Pump and Sump "read the Thread properly Oil Pump Around $1600 Sump around the Same so with Oil Pump Sump and Front diff rebuild Around $3500 actually

Sorry from your lack of punctuation it appeared like you thought the pump was over 2k. My mistake.

Punctuation, try it sometime

[R31Nismoid]

R31 Nismoid You do not even know the flow rates of a RB26 oil pump So important mate !!! you loose credability straight away

have actually have done the tests and have also had the heartache

So what are the flow rates of the N1 pump then oh intelligent one? I take it from the fact you didn't post them - you don't know either?

What are these "tests" you've personally performed on all these parts?

Please post the results for all too see, you know, so you don't loose any credibility.

I'd like to know, as I'm sure everyone else would, how you know that you'll "pretty much never a problem"

Definition of eventually: in the end

Same could be said for option 1, 2 or 3, eventually all things will fail.

I mean, eventually you'll die and so will i. See how much of a ridiculous statement that is yet?

[djr81]

Can we keep it civil please ladies? It is just a fkn oil pump, not WW3.

[R31Nismoid]

I'm civil

People just spout a lot of what workshops feed them without knowing any better. Thank god he doesn't post here all that often.

I know that you've got enough smarts to see through that and look at results, cars and the overall.

Obviously with added oil/larger sump the oil temps and similar are beneficial to the cause depending on use.

Snowman & Scotsman both ran stock sump'd GTR's for 2-3 years no problems in that department. Motors were stock too and eventually the died but that's what happens @ 330-360rwkw over a hard life. Since then they've both used N1 pumps, as have pretty much all Vic cars. Not one has broken a pump yet. Most motors hand together fine as well (failures are not pump related).

So if you are a bit worried then swap out the gearset. They aren't too expensive and if you get piece of mind then that's covered off.

Comes down to cost really:

Option 1 - 1500

Option 1.5 - 2300

Option 2 - 3200-3500

I'd also suggest if you are going to go all out on a pump, that you use the Tomei one. It's the only one that utilises a different gearset arrangement similar to that of the 2JZ (never hear of them breaking pumps). It's something I've never really worked out why the other aftermarket pump makers don't use the Tomei/2J style as for a bolt-on pump, it's the way to go.

[djr81]

I'm civil

People just spout a lot of what workshops feed them without knowing any better. Thank god he doesn't post here all that often.

I know that you've got enough smarts to see through that and look at results, cars and the overall.

Obviously with added oil/larger sump the oil temps and similar are beneficial to the cause depending on use.

Snowman & Scotsman both ran stock sump'd GTR's for 2-3 years no problems in that department. Motors were stock too and eventually the died but that's what happens @ 330-360rwkw over a hard life. Since then they've both used N1 pumps, as have pretty much all Vic cars. Not one has broken a pump yet. Most motors hand together fine as well (failures are not pump related).

So if you are a bit worried then swap out the gearset. They aren't too expensive and if you get piece of mind then that's covered off.

Comes down to cost really:

Option 1 - 1500

Option 1.5 - 2300

Option 2 - 3200-3500

I'd also suggest if you are going to go all out on a pump, that you use the Tomei one. It's the only one that utilises a different gearset arrangement similar to that of the 2JZ (never hear of them breaking pumps). It's something I've never really worked out why the other aftermarket pump makers don't use the Tomei/2J style as for a bolt-on pump, it's the way to go.

Because I have some stuff already (N1 pump & Tomei baffles) in the car option 1 is probably down around $500 tbh - but it is not a $'s issue.

For what it is worth (& I have tried to avoid all this) most pump failures I reckon to be down to materials of construction (ie sintered metal) limiter bashing and/or busted harmonic balancers. I mean, yes, inline sixes have inherent crank harmonic issues due to the length of their cranks but an RB26 is such a tiny thing it shouldn't cause massive drama.

The Tomei kit looks nice - flow looks to be +20% on stock. I would like to know how this stacks up against an N1 pump but it doesn't appear the numbers are anywhere to be had sadly.

[The Dan]

Post to get on the mailing list. This is getting interesting.

When I get home I'll put in my 40c

[R31Nismoid]

Post to get on the mailing list.

Yours are working?

We thought they were still broken...

[BMYHOE]

What the.. Who the.. F is SIR-032