Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So whats happening with these 2j style pumps? NITTO have you got any good news for us yet? Im very interested!

Have been looking at Tomei as an option, but i have heard of them breaking too as they have no room for movement. But the Tomei has external pressure adjust as a small bonus! Also considered the N1 pump with Billet gears, but still not 100% trusting of this setup, even with a collar, ross balancer & girdle brace/awd adaptor, im not sure its worth the money saved?

So hopefully these 2j pumps will be available soon, as i will need to finalise this pump descision soon, so i can finish building my rb30!

I also have the tomei sump baffle setup on the standard gtr sump, spool head oil drain & i think a 1.5mm restrictor & a HKS thermostated oil cooler, but was wondering if the expense of an extended sump (~$1300) is really nessesary or is it just a luxury? (*predomanently a street car, but will see a few circuit & club events each year! **also will be using motul 300v comp. oil)

So whats happening with these 2j style pumps? NITTO have you got any good news for us yet? Im very interested!

So hopefully these 2j pumps will be available soon, as i will need to finalise this pump descision soon, so i can finish building my rb30!

Not happening any time soon last I heard

External pump/wet sump setup is another option...and not all that much more expensive then a Nitto/Tomei/Jun etc pump + Collar

Also keen to hear from Nitto.

If you do go with a Tomei pump, 1.5mm is too big. 1.1 is more like it, and I have "heard" that racepace even use a 0.9mm! Im adding a 1.1mm restrictor to my setup after filling the catch can at Winton.

Don't run your mains larger than 3 thou clearence and you won't have a problem with the Tomei pump. Larger than 2.2 clearance will kill an N1 pump.

Don't run a big pump without a big sump as well, and especially not if you intend on seeing more than 30 seconds of track time. Protect your investment and add a few more litres of oil. Oil is life!

how would you drive it? Would i lose my A/C? or my balancer? I prefer the idea of the 2j style pump & nitto said they were testing and shouldnt be far off??!?!!

Aahhh well there you go...wasn't aware Nitto were still copying other peoples ideas :nyaanyaa:

Splined pump is the best option.

But even the JZ guys have oil pump issues if the clearances are out

  • 2 weeks later...

I came accross this a couple of weeks ago, thought that you guys might be interested in the read. Goes into great detail about pumps, clearances/tolerances and failures.

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/real-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html

  • 8 months later...

sorry for reviving an old post but im in the same situation now as u where in, and i just wanted to know what choice you went with and if it was the N1 with gears and restrictor as thats what im looking at doing + sump and cam Baffles.

  • 1 month later...

ok- So ive read through this.....

No mention on the Oil pump i have- HKS.

i understand the whole bigger pump mean picking up more oil therefore leaving less in the sump

Alot of this seem to be mentioned with track cars and 7k rmp +

I have a stock baffled sump, and supposedly Tomei oil gallery orifice, im just not to sure if this will casue any issues? and i would be better of with a stock pump- Keeping in mind this is street driven so wont be seeing the load that the avg track car gets.

ok- So ive read through this.....

No mention on the Oil pump i have- HKS.

i understand the whole bigger pump mean picking up more oil therefore leaving less in the sump

Alot of this seem to be mentioned with track cars and 7k rmp +

I have a stock baffled sump, and supposedly Tomei oil gallery orifice, im just not to sure if this will casue any issues? and i would be better of with a stock pump- Keeping in mind this is street driven so wont be seeing the load that the avg track car gets.

I think the Tomei restrictors are 1.5mm

You should be fine. These problems generally only arise on the track because you don't spend a lot of time at high revs (6000+) on the road.

  • 2 years later...

Sorry if everyone knows this but I don't look at Gtr.co.uk much and saw that the splined gears are now available to suit the stock, n1', jun and tomei oil pumps. Has anyone on sau gone to the effort to use one yet?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/270049-spline-drive-oil-pump-gears.html

Not so much has anyone gone to the effort ... more has anyone been prepared to risk their engine with new technology! They look good, have been tested at high rpm (11,000) and power (1000hp) the only element missing is longevity - if I were in the market for one (to be honest I'm not) I would like to see a few engines that have done 10,000km or more on one. Plus 450 pounds sterling is a lot of dollars!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...