Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Forging, AFAIK, is the process of making a peice of metal into a particular shape, by heating/bending/machining etc. The other type of process commonly used is casting, which is pouring molten metal into a mould. Casting usually does not provide the same quality of finished product, due to imperfections in the metal, such as dirt or air, that arise from the process.

Not sure about 3 piece, but 2 peice are usually 1 peice begin the out rim that the tyre sits on, and the other being the centre that bolts to the hub. the idea of 2 peice and 3 piece is that they will generally be stronger than a 1 piece (usually means cast) wheel.

Thanks for the info!

So multi-piece rims are usually lighter than cast but is not necesrily cast itself. So the question still stands...does anyone have a webpage dexcribing the benifits of multi-piece wheels?

Are monoblock rims the same as a non multi-piece rim? Cause I know rims that are called monoblock are really expensive.

Thanks for the info!

So multi-piece rims are usually lighter than cast but is not necesrily cast itself. So the question still stands...does anyone have a webpage dexcribing the benifits of multi-piece wheels?

Don't know about any websites, but the biggest advantage of multi-piece rims is manufacturing costs. One centre of a fixed diameter can be fitted to almost any offset. This is why companies like SSR, Kakimoto (mfg by SSR) and Simmons can offer one wheel style to suit virtually any car. Simmons can make a one-off set of wheels for whatever you like, without requiring heaps of tooling or warehousing.

According to Newton's Law, every action has an equal & opposite reaction. Multi piece rims are dented at the perimeter easily & can have leakage issues. I have witnessed both first hand, & it's not uncommon.

One piece forged wheels are generally lighter & stronger.

mmmmkay ??

Depends which ones, though. I was quoted $1700 for a set of standard P1 Racing's (non-forged, though still good) in hypergold (17x8) by C-Red.

Another place quoted $650 per rim (17x8) for P1 Racing QF's (forged), so my guesstimate is about $800 ea. for 18x9's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But, do I have to? 😬
    • While doing my tailgate struts I found some rust. Also replaced my bonnet struts. Such a cool satisfaction with that job.
    • So I removed as much as I could from both sides. The shop vac did a great job of clearing 99% of it. I got it all as clean as I could and then absolutely drenched the whole lot in the rust converter. Tonight or tomorrow I'll hammer it again. The cavity must be close to 400mm in length and surprisingly I was able to get it right to the back.  I'll quickly reassemble and then pretend I never saw it. I'll post pics (for me to ignore later) soon.
    • Yea she is a hoot to drive 
    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for~?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate almost all modern cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
×
×
  • Create New...