Jump to content
SAU Community

My Soarer Is Starting And Stopping..

Shmee33

By Shmee33,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shmee33 Rising Star

Shmee33

Posted
Posted

Hey,

im having an issue with my toyota soarer, when ever i go to start it the car will rev to 1,100 for about 1 sec then it slowly dies and stalls.

its taking about 4 times to start it but when the car is up and running it is absoltly fine.

revs perfectly and no problems after trying about 3 times..

iv checked my vacum lines and they all seem fine?

thanks alex<BR clear=all>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358866-my-soarer-is-starting-and-stopping/
Share on other sites
Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Hahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahaa Socrates!!!! Where'd you hear that :P

Seriously though OP why ask that here on a skylines forum??

As socs said it sounds like your ecu caps are busted. Go to passenger door, pull up the carpet..

Unbolt the black cover. Unbolt the ENGINE ecu. It's the one on the right.

If you see some greasy crap pooled around that smells like cat pee... There's your problem.

Take it to an electronics repair shop. Get them to replace your capacitors. Should be about 100 odd dollars .. Or take to jaycar buy your own caps and do it yourself.. Personally I wouldnt do this myself...

Failing that ... There could be a problem with your fuel pump ecu..

Hold on I'll link you on how to diagnose that..

Ps don't ask soarer questions here man you're lucky there's a soarer nerd on deck :P

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Okay as for the possible fuel pump ecu problem... I won't bother linking you to it because it's too hard explain.. Reading about it gives me a headache so if you want to either fix / diagnose your car, PM me your number and I'll give you a call and we'll take it from there

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

Okay as for the possible fuel pump ecu problem... I won't bother linking you to it because it's too hard explain.. Reading about it gives me a headache so if you want to either fix / diagnose your car, PM me your number and I'll give you a call and we'll take it from there

What a helpful young lad. Rowan, you would make your mum proud. Haha

Ten Four Grand Master

Ten Four

Posted
Posted

Mums just sold her soarer.. It gets picked up next saturday so then we'll only have two :(

We need another jap car to replace it...

E51 elgrand??? :)

Sold to Matty? If so, I told him to buy it!! (I ended up buying an AU falcodore, 99 model 158km $2500 - couldn't resist.. Thanks though!)

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Yeah Matt bought it... He told me Lachlan told him about it, I was like.. Erm... How did lachlan know we were planing on selling OLOLOLOL

And yes very happy that we sold a car without putting it on the market!!! I think he'll be a proud owner :)

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted (edited)

there is no reason for oil to be in the diagnostics port :/

you are talking about THIS right?

http://www.soarerworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10634&stc=1&d=1149099019

^^^that's a diagnostics port, it's in the engine bay and it's next to the intake manifold.. or are you confused with something else...?

and did you call me from someone else's phone? a girls phone? :/

oh and sorry i missed the call man, I'm.. not very well today and was passd out in bed

Edited by Mr Eps
Shmee33 Rising Star

Shmee33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah in that port, it has a grease build up.

i rang u off my girlfriends phone. my number is 0419175496,

i cant check the car tonight because i dont have the keys on me but ill send u a photo msg showing you the grease.

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...