Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

could anyone please translate these japanese instructions for me? its for the boost sensor for my MFD display.

i can see there is a vacume pump conected to the sensor and voltage requied at a boost level but not sure if its just a check to make sure its operating as noromal or for calabration which is what im hoping for.

any help muchly apreciated

george

post-16838-0-08418800-1301267107_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358945-translation-to-english-needed/
Share on other sites

could anyone please translate these japanese instructions for me? its for the boost sensor for my MFD display.

i can see there is a vacume pump conected to the sensor and voltage requied at a boost level but not sure if its just a check to make sure its operating as noromal or for calabration which is what im hoping for.

any help muchly apreciated

george

post-16838-0-08418800-1301267107_thumb.jpg

Looks like its just a check - there aren't any instructions on how to adjust it. Here is the translation for the stuff in the table:

圧力 pressure

電圧値 voltage

大圧気 high pressure

約 approximately

Edited by *LOACH*

thanks loach i pulled open the sensor and there is 2 dials in it for calibrating it, i need the 2 bar map sensor but i bought this 1.2bar one for $25 so i can play around with it

nissan want $140 for either one and they dont know how long it will take to come from japan with all that going on there atm

Pretty sure the R34 workshop manual has that exact diagram in English - gives you the voltages you should receive with a pressure gauge.

The 1.2bar sensor is the regular map sensor used on R34 GT-T/GT-R - the 2.0bar comes as part of the kit for the updated nismo MFD boards (though obviously you can source it separately).

thanks loach i pulled open the sensor and there is 2 dials in it for calibrating it, i need the 2 bar map sensor but i bought this 1.2bar one for $25 so i can play around with it

nissan want $140 for either one and they dont know how long it will take to come from japan with all that going on there atm

No worries. Usually if a pressure sensor has two adjustments then one adjustment is to set the zero and the other the range. I usually set the zero first and then the range then recheck the zero. The two adjustments affect each other so sometimes it takes quite a while to get it. If you have to keep adjusting them set the zero then the range then when you recheck the zero go half way to zero.

For example: if when you recheck the zero it says 5 then set the the zero to 2.5 and recheck the range. Then recheck the the zero and if it says 3 set zero to 1.5 and recheck range again. Keep doing it and evetually you will get there. Good luck with it.

Can I contribue to this? I got 'atmospheric pressure' where LOACH got 'high pressure' im sure it was translation typo.. and sounds like the special tool they have/use does a vacum pressure test on this Boost Sensor. thats why the table line two shows a -47kpa instesd of a +47kpa.

sorry if this is what someone has already said.

cheers!

edit on grammar!

Edited by ZOKU

Can I contribue to this? I got 'atmospheric pressure' where LOACH got 'high pressure' im sure it was translation typo.. and sounds like the special tool they have/use does a vacum pressure test on this Boost Sensor. thats why the table line two shows a -47kpa instesd of a +47kpa.

sorry if this is what someone has already said.

cheers!

edit on grammar!

This one - 大圧気 high pressure ??

Its definitely possible it is wrong but I am pretty sure this kanji 大 means large/big/great etc so I assumed it is the full boost setting for the R34GTR (80kpa I think). Also I would imagine that you would want a high pressure check and a low (less than an atmospheric) reading to check the working range of the pressure sensor. I could be wrong though - maybe its only to check the vacuum range. Anyone else got any ideas?

Edited by *LOACH*

Can I contribue to this? I got 'atmospheric pressure' where LOACH got 'high pressure' im sure it was translation typo.. and sounds like the special tool they have/use does a vacum pressure test on this Boost Sensor. thats why the table line two shows a -47kpa instesd of a +47kpa.

sorry if this is what someone has already said.

cheers!

edit on grammar!

I was absolutely wrong and you were absolutely right. Sorry about that and thanks for the information most appreciated.

Guess nobody wanted to listen to my suggestion; Here I've done it for you:

post-34488-0-87623200-1301869206_thumb.png

Maybe no one who read the thread has an R34 workshop manual. I certainly dont. Thanks for the picture anyway.

NIS.26L - Sorry about the incorrect translation, Hope it all goes well for you.

Edited by *LOACH*
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...