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Hmmm i dunno about those racv test's.I sold a car once and i kid you not the car was imac.Now the mew owner got a test done after he bought it.....The car was an Isuzu MU,Now they said the wastegate is jammed on the turbo charger...now if its jammed open..it get no boost..now if its jammed shut it will overboost and **** itself....now after he had it done i checked the car and the report...they said the trans had leaks...there wasnt and leak at all...there was a small amount of seepage around the rubber hoses but it wasnt leaking...and the turbocharger OMG...i hooked up a vacum gauge to the car and stuck it in park and stood on the brake and wham it went to 8psi then cracked off and held steady......they also said"essesive black smoke"I got all the stuff check by allfleet deisel services in airport west and they laughed at the report..."nothing is wrong with it"the guy said.And to top it off when the guy took it in to get tested the radio worked and when he picked it up.....it didnt.I called them and the guy that done the report wouldnt speak to me and the guy on the phone said "oh well the wastegate musthave unjammed itself" I just told them i didnt think they knew what they were doing and the guy is very upset with them coz we had it double checked and there is nothing wrong apart from the radio prob which they caused....make your own mind up but id be getting a perfomance place to check it before racv...

It's clean...completely clean. No mods. Done about 42000Ks but I figured it's been knocked back. But had my mechanic go through it and it's in A1, the trims all fine etc. Only thing is the hicas light shows up occasionally. And I hate those damn rims...I'd be quite happy to get a stock 2nd hand set if anyone wants to sell. It's got a GTR spoiler too..which kinda spoils the understated look.

I'll try and get the web space tonight to host it up. Thanks for all the advice guys!

Red32 (Ross), a friend of mine is also looking for a 32, I'll pass the message to him. Although, I think he's looking at about 15-16K too. Is your car still up for sale?

Hi guys,

Just some questions about my 32 that I'd like to ask. I'm still a newbie here, so forgive my ignorance.

1. What the heck is a Type-M? What's so different between that and a standard GTST?

2. With my fan switched on (air-con is off), I notice my revs at idle keep varying between 650-850. And the tone of the engine note is variable. However, with the air-con on, it's at 900 and it stays constant. Why is this so? Anyway I can stop the variations? Do an ECU reset?

3. Where can I find a knowledgeable skyline or nissan sportscar mechanic in Melbourne? Any recommendations?

Originally posted by Ait

1. What the heck is a Type-M? What's so different between that and a standard GTST?

Type M = Turbo, Type S = Non Turbo (roughly, there are the exceptions

2. With my fan switched on (air-con is off), I notice my revs at idle keep varying between 650-850. And the tone of the engine note is variable. However, with the air-con on, it's at 900 and it stays constant. Why is this so? Anyway I can stop the variations? Do an ECU reset?

The revs are higher coz there's more power drawn from the engine (alternator etc) when you switch the AC on. Check it out, put a stereo in and turn it on, put your demisters on, put your fog lights and headlights on and your engine tone will change. All cars do it, some just do it more noticably than others. You could stop the variations by using a 2nd batterey to operate all accessories off and using a trickling circuit to trickle charge the battery only while the car is in motion... or you could put up with the tone changes. Personally I use the tone to check what I've got on.

Where can I find a knowledgeable skyline or nissan sportscar mechanic in Melbourne? Any recommendations?

Trying to find one myself, but meggala recomended sum dude in Cheltenham, or there's Dean, but I dunno if he does servicing. Ask them for more details.

Actually...the revs vary when I have no aircondition on. So while it's at idle...the tone changes quite frequently. Isn't that quite disturbing :D

Will check out ICEPERFORMANCE.

The thing is...my car looks different from those with a Type M bodykit. Is there such a thing? I'd like a body kit like that...not too ostentatious :D

Originally posted by Ait

Actually...the revs vary when I have no aircondition on. So while it's at idle...the tone changes quite frequently. Isn't that quite disturbing :D

Will check out ICEPERFORMANCE.  

The thing is...my car looks different from those with a Type M bodykit. Is there such a thing? I'd like a body kit like that...not too ostentatious :D

my one has the Type M kit does it look like that?

u can also get Type - X which was the CA18 4 cylinder engine, the Type - XG which was the RB25DE and i think thats about it...

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
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