Jump to content
SAU Community

Holden Commodore Vt S Pack 5 Speed Manual P Plate Legal


Recommended Posts

reason for sale- i want another jap car!!!!

holden commodore VT s pack

3.8l 6 cyl ecotec engine

p plate legal

5 speed manual

pod air filter (stock air box included)

lowered springs all round(stock springs included)

holden alloys

rear camber kit

exhaust (stock exhaust included)

deleted spoiler

SS kit

calais rear lights and garnish

very smooth gearbox

engine running perfect

VY front seats

interior is very good

body work is excellent.

great car, ideal for a p plater

$8200 with fresh vic rego and rwc or offers without rego (i will cancel current sa rego)

pics soon

0411421097

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha thanks man

car is very very clean, great example and it sits great, not too low not too high for a commy but i just dont feel right in it, like i dont belong haha

would be a great tow car/ cruiser.

price is negotiable. will run out and get pics when my boss goes on his break :whistling:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • None of the above. G30 660. Call it done. Or, BW EFR, or one of the other similar modern options. In the BWs we're talking EFR 7670 with the twinscroll turbine housing. Sorta good for 650HP at the flywheel, which should be more than enough. Broadly speaking it's equivalent to the G30 660. None of this is cheap like the OP's original options, though. The PSR3576 is also a bit larger than the new power target would suggest using. The ATR43SS3 was always a smaller choice than the PSR. 600 fly vs 750 fly. So they weren't ever comparable options. I would think the ATR43SS2 or 3 would do what is (now) wanted, especially if E85 is the path to making the target. Tao's own recco is for an SS2 on E85 for 340rwkW, which is almost exactly on target. The SS3 would have more headroom, but it really demands a 4" inlet. I would probably try Tao's reccomended turbo at <1/3 the price of the name brand stuff I suggested above.
    • G25/30 Series. Nobody seems to run a BW EFR anymore, and not at a 320kw power level on 95 gas. I did back in the day on a RB28, I don't think anyone ever ran a 7163 on a RB25. That said, a G series is going to be much easier to fit being physically smaller which is more helpful than you might think.  The turbo is the only thing that really adds power to the car. It is the most important of all selections. Do not skimp on it. If it's a budget issue, save longer. The difference between a G series and these other options will be like 5% when all is said and done. What's an extra $1000 now when you look at it through the lens of all the $ already spent to support..... the turbo to do its job well.  I see it in LS worlds too, where they spend $50,000 on the motor to run 2x $300 ebay china turbos on the f**kin thing. With engine consumables, well - they all are. Just less with less power. It's either already rebuilt... .....or it's a 25 year old engine you are wanting to boost to (at least) 200% of stock power. It would be very wise to consider what the plan is, and be ready for it, when something does go south. Don't be that guy with a just completed-now-broken-car because you didn't budget for things to go wrong, which is how a low of projects end up sadly.
    • If you had to pick between Pulsar and Hypergear I would probably go Hypergear. 
    • I would need one of these adpaters to by-pass the factory dampner: Which I don't have here atm. So I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and take out the fuel rail and inspec it. And I'll put the other spare one in, do a fuel pressure test with top half of the stock manifold off. (^from google images) If the pressure is still high, I can plumb the gauge maybe in there (circled in red) to check for the pressure after the dampner. Can't do it with the top half of the manifold in the way.
×
×
  • Create New...