Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate that is a very loaded question and needs a lot more detail...

what type of driving will you do?

Hard core drags with dumping the clutch, racing, drifting or just street driving...

as a guide my stock nissan one when i pulled it out was absolutly fine with heaps of meat left no burn marks running just over 300rwhp for 3 years plus what ever the guy before me did... other's will say that it should have died on that power... but i drive easy on the clutch...

so without more detail all i can say is yes it will handle it...

For only street driving you probably wouldn't want a 5 puck since they don't like being slipped and burn easily.

For only street driving what you're after is a clutch with organic friction plate. Like the HD, or HDCB types.

HD looks like a normal clutch, HDCB is like your 5 puck, but with organic friction material between the pucks too, to make them more streetable.

You will be pushing it with an Exedy HD clutch for 400rwhp.

Would not recommend cushioned either with that power, would be going HDB if anything, but even then...

Would be contemplating twin plate

Edited by Dani Boi

im running the HDB its fine on the street if you know how to use it. just dont slip it or use the clutch to control the car on hills etc use your handbrake if you have to

if your not confident in doing that then go the HDCB however it may not hold aswell as the HDB

a twin plate is way over kill...

it all comes down to how you drive, like luvpsi said it is fine if you know how to use it...

i have seen a cushion last now for 10 months as a daily driver, 16000km with 425rwhp so it will work and be fine not pushing it at all... if you do hard launches it will get eaten up and by that i mean 5000rpm and also riding the clutch like a bitch that does not know how to stop at lights correctly or do hill starts, that will destory most cluthes quickly

i have the feeling people like to go button and multi-plate simply cause they think it is cool and everyone else did it... be different and build the car for you and how you drive not everyone else as you have to live with the rattles and hard pedal feel for going overkill

i have the feeling people like to go button and multi-plate simply cause they think it is cool and everyone else did it... be different and build the car for you and how you drive not everyone else as you have to live with the rattles and hard pedal feel for going overkill

No the reason people go HDB is because it is cheaper marginally and it offers more flexibility in how you use your car if you decide to take it on track or drag whatever...

But ok my fault I see he said weekend driver, so by all means pay the extra $200 if comfort and street only car is what your after.

No the reason people go HDB is because it is cheaper marginally and it offers more flexibility in how you use your car if you decide to take it on track or drag whatever...

But ok my fault I see he said weekend driver, so by all means pay the extra $200 if comfort and street only car is what your after.

was not sure on the price :P - cheap arses lol

do agree with you on the taking it to the track and drags go for a button or multi-plate for sure

do agree with you on the taking it to the track and drags go for a button or multi-plate for sure

Most enthusiasts build their cars so they can take them on the track or strip.. if they don't, then they're just posers :P

a twin plate is way over kill...

it all comes down to how you drive, like luvpsi said it is fine if you know how to use it...

i have seen a cushion last now for 10 months as a daily driver, 16000km with 425rwhp so it will work and be fine not pushing it at all... if you do hard launches it will get eaten up and by that i mean 5000rpm and also riding the clutch like a bitch that does not know how to stop at lights correctly or do hill starts, that will destory most cluthes quickly

i have the feeling people like to go button and multi-plate simply cause they think it is cool and everyone else did it... be different and build the car for you and how you drive not everyone else as you have to live with the rattles and hard pedal feel for going overkill

400RWHP is on the boundaries of the HP Rating for those units, sure it will work but for how long? Going by the mentality of most skyline drivers with 400hp the chances are pretty slim and may last a short while. At 400hp you are moving towards Sports style clutch, super single or multi plate as these are a completely different design using different material, also depending on how you drive and where. Remember most basic twin plates are only rated to 650ps, often people have a misconception about these and think they are for 600rwhp+. Twins however have some negatives as they can't be used for general stop start road use as they will get burnt out because of stop starting ect

It's better of spending the correct amount of coin on a decent clutch that will last a few years than purchasing something which may work for a while and then need to be replaced.

In saying that most clutches that are genuine have ratings which are under rated, for example the Exedy units have being well and truely pushed beyond what they list and work fine. Just avoid the inferior cheap copy shit and you should be fine.

From my own experience I bought a cheap inferior clutch about 5 years ago after my HKS Twin Plate failed with around 400hp, this clutch cost be around $500, after a few launches it was completely f**ked and lasted about 1,500km. Then I purchased a Exedy Hyper Twin and it went 20,000km with 500hp and did not skip a beat till I needed to purchase a HKS Triple which i did recently.

Edited by monga
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not from WA but saw this thread. Anyway I got my self a carbotic button clutch, basically an exedy 5 puk but with carbotic buttons. I was told its more the torque which affects the clutch. Carbotic buttons are good for about 550 - 600nm torque. KB Clutch Engineering.

Also to all those who say its not streetable. They most certainly are. It depends all on the pressure plate. They can be ridden but not as much as normal as their is metal in the buttons.

Some buttons are made of Kevlar some Carbotic. Carbotic is actually quite slippable compared to Kevlar buttons so it makes it very street friendly. Hopefully my box is on tomorrow and ill give my findings in another thread.

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...