Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys well at first i thought it was an ecu related problem due to water leak in sunroof. but turns out i was wrong as i pulled out the injectors and they were blocked pretty bad, there only standard injectors but in getting them professionally cleaned for $200 sound alright or worth getting new ones?? so ive heard the gtr fuel tank is plastic which should remove the problem but i havnt been able to find if it fits in my gtst and what kind of pump setup i would need. i think it would be wise due the the amount of rust seen in tank to replace pump too? so what pump should i replace with? and the guys that are cleaning my injectors said they cant clean the rail in there machine? is there a way of cleaning it? as it wouldnt be any where near as bad due to been after the filter although i only change the filter when i noticed the missfire and cut the old filter in half and i was full of SHIT so the last owner hadnt changed it in a long time! any advice on the best way to fix this problem and if any one has any parts to sell me to fix this as im stuck with out a car until i can track down parts. and may haft to buy an old 4wd or somting in the mean time as im that stuffed for transport atm unless i covert the motor in my old gazelle to the ca18 i got in the shed but thats a another hassle haha any thoughts appeciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359190-needs-advice/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys trying to track down the same fuel rail as i pulled out as all rails ive found for sale have only one regulator where as mine seems to have two? is this normal for my model or has some one changed it before and put i different one if?

post-68110-0-98008100-1302247017_thumb.jpg

post-68110-0-82717100-1302247086_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359190-needs-advice/#findComment-5751958
Share on other sites

It is a fuel dampener, not a regulator. I think the 34's had it on the rail while the 33's had it on the body above the filter.

ok so do u think it would be right to run with out the dampener ? as all other rb 20 rails ive seen dont have them unless as mines a 93 its diferent?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359190-needs-advice/#findComment-5755689
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...