Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Modification

lav

By lav,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

lav Community Regular

lav

Posted
Posted

i have standard rb26dett engine on gtr33 with bleed valve, power fc, adj cams, high flow 3 3/4' exhaust and just got a pair of -9's from Osaka Imports today for $1500

Just wondering what kW am i looking at once the turbo's and dump pipes are installed....

and how much without the dump pipes.....

been told that by installing dump pipes, it makes a difference....

need to know what other supporting minor mods can help to increase the power......

thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359207-gtr-modification/
Share on other sites
Ant97GTR Grand Master

Ant97GTR

Posted
Posted
have standard rb26dett engine

Your first concern should be reliability and power being well and truely second. Once all bolted together get a good tuner to sort out a reliable tune.

As for the dump pipe difference, I guess it depends which dumps you have bought - sure they can make a difference but by how much depends on how good they are.

CR34M Community Regular

CR34M

Posted
Posted

280AwKw would be safe, look upwards of 320AwKw but less reliable, depends how the car is tuned and where the power comes on....no point having 320 when your power is upward of 8000rpm for eg. 280-290 would be suffice with the set up and parts you have.

lav Community Regular

lav

Posted
  • Author
Posted

280AwKw would be safe, look upwards of 320AwKw but less reliable, depends how the car is tuned and where the power comes on....no point having 320 when your power is upward of 8000rpm for eg. 280-290 would be suffice with the set up and parts you have.

Yeah, im looking around 300 mark atleast....will see once it go on the tune....

  • 2 weeks later...
lav Community Regular

lav

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I definately agree with Ant97GTR though, there is a big difference in making big power and making it and still keeping the reliability, take to a tuner who knows these cars inside out!

Where did you take yours to?

Many people told me that with the -9 on stock motor will be around 280 to 300 kW

I wonder how urs made 300+!!!

very concern and will like to know if you did anything else to yours....

Fullboost_Performance Apprentice

Fullboost_Performance

Posted
Posted

Where did you take yours to?

Many people told me that with the -9 on stock motor will be around 280 to 300 kW

I wonder how urs made 300+!!!

very concern and will like to know if you did anything else to yours....

Mine had a built engine, head work, cams, cam gears, 4" exh from front pipe back.

I have seen same setups making 290, friend of mine in his R32 GTR is making 328 with more boost, was tuned from a place in NSW just before he bought it, so i would say a little more boost and head work makes the difference.

Simon from NT Performance Turbocharging in Footscray, they had built some pretty serious GTR's and GTS-T's thats why i took mine there, if your keen i can pass their number on and you can have a chat to them about what was done.

I dare say that yours with head work perhaps a slightly bigger exhaust would make more

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 馃槢 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 路 Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
脳
脳
  • Create New...