Jump to content
SAU Community

Serious Guard Lipping / Making Flutes In Std Guards


Recommended Posts

Hey guys i hsould i would give you a quick look to what i was up to on the weekend

so i cut some flutes in my fender and this is how i did it

First i cut me flutes in the metal and bended them back untill i liked the shape

post-63394-0-00046500-1301547154_thumb.jpg

i also fiberglassed the other side just 2 layers think basic stuff

post-63394-0-56816400-1301547174_thumb.jpg

i used a flap disk on my angle grinder to quickly sand back the bog

post-63394-0-12641100-1301547529_thumb.jpg

then a light sand and primer coat

post-63394-0-09010200-1301547574_thumb.jpg

then paint and wait to dry :)

post-63394-0-78725700-1301547601_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-89384100-1301547615_thumb.jpg

now this is the fun bit

I had problems getting the lock and the wheels under my car because the guards were SO CLOSE TO RUBBING so I came up with this

Firstly grab a guard roller or a hammer I rolled them to a STUPID AMOUNT pushed them our REALLY quite far

post-63394-0-78940600-1301547937_thumb.jpg

Then i did my measuring and masking to make sure it was going to look and do what I wanted it to

post-63394-0-99551100-1301548035_thumb.jpg

then here comes the scary part CUTTING

post-63394-0-99139600-1301548066_thumb.jpg

cut a fair amount of slits in the metal and bend them all up evenly with a large set of vice grips/ pliers until you get your desired look

now we go fibergassing I made mine about 3 sheets think if it to thick we can just sand it down

post-63394-0-60133900-1301548138_thumb.jpg

now for bog i put heaps on because once again if you have to much you can just sand it back

(:note: i got my girlfriend to do the sanding work it saves alot of time and hard work ;) )

post-63394-0-92458100-1301548210_thumb.jpg

now here is when it starts to take shape i have now primed and sanded it all back ( i had some small pin holes i used pin hole putty to gill them in re sanded and reprimed i dont have a photo for this step )

post-63394-0-65386600-1301548252_thumb.jpg

but look its starting to take shape now we just paint and clear coat

post-63394-0-26844600-1301548398_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-86523300-1301548414_thumb.jpg

wait to dry put your wheel back on and take your masking off what you think????

post-63394-0-20772800-1301548501_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-59289000-1301548526_thumb.jpg

big thanks to my beautiful girl friend as she did most of the sanding work on this job

comments questions??

Edited by Abe2
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey man when I first started reading this thread I was horrified at what you were doing! I'm a spraypainter by trade and the thought of doing this to a customers car nearly did my head in. Having said that I understand this is a drift car and 11/10 to you for the effort most people wouldn't even dream of repairing a dent in their own car and you've actually gone out and done some fairly involved customizations that have come up looking really good. Keep up the good work.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i had a go at my rears on my gtr using this method(flaring only) couldnt beleive how easy it was i think the bog was the hardest for me. trust im no panel beater. dont be afraid to give it a shot you will be surprised at how easy it is top job abe2

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...