Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm getting annoyed with this.

I've got the car tuned and retuned by Trent a few times now, but the knock levels keep spiking.

I'm trying to get the car ready for track but I'm scared if I drive it hard with the way it is, I'm going to do some serious damage.

I drive the car daily to work and keep it under 4 grand when doing so and get nothing above 20, but occasionally I feel like giving it a boot.

When I do, especially in 2nd and 3rd, I'll sometimes get readings of anywhere between 60-110 up and around the 5-6k mark.

The car feels fine, but I back off anyway.

I can't hear any pinning, but to be honest, I'm not 100% sure I know what I'm listening for.

On the dyno, the car is perfect. a healthy 200kw on the stock turbo (12psi) with std inj, std afm, nismo fuel pump etc.

I'm stumped, I've taken it back to Trent a few times, he takes out some timing, but the spiking still comes up occasionally when I open her up.

Am I getting false readings? Do I need a road tune? Is there something wrong internally? Is there a way to diagnose the issue?

I'm pretty sure I've gotten the lose cells on the tune covered because I've taken it back a few times.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359399-power-fc-knock-again/
Share on other sites

Trent is probably doing nothing wrong. The engine may not knock at all. 110 would definitely be audible.

The problem is also that you are pushing a stock turbo almost to it's full potential so you are generating a lot of hot air. This may cause knock spikes after a few sustained runs and it may not show up on the dyno

ask trent to put his knock sensor on the car and take it for a drive and listen to the engine, those knock sensors are designed to pickup knock on a completly standard setup, when you start changing the power outout boost revs and do mods to the car the knock sensors usually start to give false readings.

I don't know how willing trent will be to do this, i guess everything has its price for piece of mind. ie do not expect this service for free.

Thanks guys, I'll get onto Trent for a road test when I've got some week days off.

I'm going to take your advice and drop a few PSI - only problem is, it's a manual turbotech boost controller and I've never fidled with it. Do I turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise? How much turn it for 1-2PSI?

What condition are you plugs in?

I had the same problem, took it to my mechanic. He pulled out the plugs. They were in terrible condition. The ceramic on number 1 and 2 cylinder plugs were actually SHATTERED from the heat.

Replaced the plugs and the problem went away

I turned the boost controller down a quarter of a turn gave it hell on the way to work today.

Maybe it was partly due to the hotter weather but she ran perfect - the knock levels never went about 21.

SAU saves the day again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...