Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

didnt get a chance today,mate has my timing light'

but could anyone tell me what these ecu's are please'---

p6

23710 21u13

mec-r533 a1 4803

other is>

mec-r630 a2 car was bought with first one in it, now runing second 1 as told was maped for higher boost and boost cut taken off so on,but i dout it,,they both run the same., never use to cut out,

The consult data shouldn't move, this is the ecu tuned idle timing,

because the timing in the ecu can't be adjusted you need to set the engine timing to exactly what the ecu timing shows.

the reason for this is the engine has been tuned from factory with the engine timing at 20 (at idle)

so as the rpm increases and load increases the ecu reads off its factory tuned map.

but if the timing is not set to the factory engine timing then the motor ecu will be running too much or too little timing depending which way the timing is set (advanced or retarded).

-if its retarded then the engine performance will be low

-if its advanced there is a chance the engine may ping or detonate causing engine failure.

ok, follow these steps

1. unbolt number 1 coilpack from its cradle but leave it plugged in to the loom

2. get an old spark plug lead and put it between the coilpack and the spark plug, you may need to shove something conductive in the end of the coilpack to bridge the gap between the spring and the lead

3. hook the timing light onto the spark plug lead

4. start the car and make sure your getting spark to cyl 1 (timing light should flash)

5. plug your consult thingy in and see what timing its displaying (in that pic its 20)

6. adjust the cas until the timing on the crank is the same as the timing displayed in consult, if its 20 then you want to line it up with the 3rd mark from the right on the balancer. turning the cas clockwise retards timing and anticlockwise advances it

thanks guys, but i know all this stuff , just wondering why it sits on 20degrees at idle timing,dvs32r u say its factory? i just thought it should read 15.as i plug into sr20 and it reads 15. i can change to -15 but carnt burn to ecu,as its stock ecu. change in test mode and motor sounds like it should.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...