Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I am buying a rb20det to put in to my r32 but am unsure if the motor is running or not. the motor is on a crate and has a ecu. The guy im buying it off has bought off someone else to put in a vl but had to sell the car. So what im getting to is, is it possable to run the motor on the crate (obviousley mounted) before i put it in the car only to find out that the motor dosnt run??

Thanks

Only if the gearbox and starter are still connected and you can power up the ECU. Set up some sort of dummy fuel system and away you go......

Or you could just tell the guy you want a guarantee that there won't be problems when you go to start it, and if there are, he will return your money. Get it in writing. If he won't, then go buy one from a wrecker who will. Decent RB20's only go for like $1000

when i bought my half cut they fired it up for me all they did was set up a dummy fuel system and connected a battery and away they went make sure you also do a compression test aswell no point buying a engine that start just to find out later down the track the compression is stuffed. make sure it is even across the board. mine was 151 150 151 150 150 150. as long as it does not fluctuate to much you should be fine.

without the gearbox the starter has nothing to bolt to so its unable to crank the motor, no crank=no start.

half cuts are easy to start, engine and box only not so easy.

as Elite said get a written warranty agreement if you buy it from that seller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
    • Interesting, I've heard complete opposite on my end. Bit of a lottery I guess.
×
×
  • Create New...