Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have used the power button quite a few times at the lights, and it seems that it shifts into gears a lot later allowing it to rev higher.

The snow button in my opinion is just so that at the lights you do not overspin the wheels when its raining

Could someone please confirm?Or is there another use for them?

Also what is the "plastic box" underneath the passenger side seat with the wiring coming in and out of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/
Share on other sites

the power/snow selector has zero effect (that is noticeable at least) on my car. i was hoping that it would make the auto trans shift at double rate or something at least

would be nice if there was an official technical document that explains how things have been programmed (power/snow/tiptronic/etc)

Edited by Trick V35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5743219
Share on other sites

the power/snow selector has zero effect (that is noticeable at least) on my car. i was hoping that it would make the auto trans shift at double rate or something at least

would be nice if there was an official technical document that explains how things have been programmed (power/snow/tiptronic/etc)

I've occasionally bumped mine onto snow by mistake, and it definitely has an effect! Throttle response is limited, ie can't take off quickly at all, no matter how hard down your foot is, and gear shifts take place at really low revs, maybe max 3K. Have to admit I haven't really tried it on the power setting yet though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5745705
Share on other sites

They buttons do what they say they are for

Snow makes the car very docile and from what iv read take off in 2nd gear. This is what you want when your in a snowy/icy road so your not wheel spinning at the slightest tap off the accelerator

Power holds the gears longer before it changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5746208
Share on other sites

They buttons do what they say they are for

Snow makes the car very docile and from what iv read take off in 2nd gear. This is what you want when your in a snowy/icy road so your not wheel spinning at the slightest tap off the accelerator

Power holds the gears longer before it changes

That is correct. :thumbsup:

For me, I use power setting when I am on a cruise, normal setting for daily driving, snow setting if it's raining heavily (My rear wheels spin like crazy on wet roads :P ).

Edited by VNS 24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5746253
Share on other sites

Ok yep tested and came to the following conclusion

SNOW: makes accelerator / throttle opening ratio much less sensitive.

POWER: makes accelerator / throttle opening ratio slightly more sensitive.

Doesnt make any change if you switch while already accelerating.

But in either mode, put your foot to the floor and it still drives like in normal mode.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5755262
Share on other sites

That is correct. :thumbsup:

For me, I use power setting when I am on a cruise, normal setting for daily driving, snow setting if it's raining heavily (My rear wheels spin like crazy on wet roads :P ).

why would you have the power button on for cruises? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5755701
Share on other sites

why would you have the power button on for cruises? :)

Hi Roy, I want the car to feel more responsive when giving it abit go. So on power setting, I feel like I am pushing the car more than in normal driving.

Plus, I got to keep up with other turbo cars too. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359595-power-button/#findComment-5755727
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The previous switchover point was 501mv. The stock value is like ~360. They now were idling at about ~880. The thing is, most people get a false lean condition. I am getting false rich conditions. This isn't a quirk of terminology, most cam upgraders get awful fuel economy because the O2's read false lean and add fuel - Mine are attempting to aggressively subtract fuel.
    • So... the whole idea was to upgrade the power of the motor from stock. The motor I bought with the gearbox had 'some' stuff done to it in the past, but it wasn't as well thought out/what I had wanted to do. The stock heads typically are a big restriction on LS's and need porting to unlock quite a lot of power. You can then go a bit silly with aftermarket castings to get more, aftermarket intake manifolds for a little more, and then porting those for more. <- We are here. Nobody in Australia really goes down this path (for some reason). It might* make 3kw or something more than doing things the tried and true path for 10X the cost. So that's probably why - I wouldn't even recommend it to people, the money was and is likely better spent on just CNC'ing the stock heads and putting a 6.3L stroker kit in. I didn't want to go down the 'normal' path and then think: But if I'd just done a bit more - I could have had a slightly better result. I assumed the heads were running out of flow and it always annoyed me - Turns out the previous installer advanced the cam 6 degrees so this is likely why it was coming on earlier and running out of puff earlier than advertised. The body panels were just lack of planning/no information on this anywhere on the internet and the fact they came out different was annoying. From test fitting the guard it appears I could have gotten away with GTR guards only, but I got the bonnet and raisers and everything else as well for a pretty decent package deal.
    • So you had a car that by all accounts drove well and survived track days, and that was looking great after months of being stuck at a paint shop. Some might call that a finished project. But you decided this is not quite right. So now the car does not run anymore. And the engine doesn't fit anymore. And the body parts don't match anymore. But, this is progress somehow. Greg, I think your subconscious does not like you and does not want you to drive this car. (I know I know, this whole escalation was not intended, but man, what a rollercoaster)
    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
×
×
  • Create New...