Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I converted my set of stock lights to LED's, to make it look like nismo, here's some pics. I'd convert em for people too, for a fee :P

attachicon.gif20130623_130743.jpgattachicon.gif20130629_144107.jpg

wow, looks amazing!! I like how you use the stock plastic, unlike some tacky one's i've seen around...

how much am i looking at for you to DIY for me? :P

I would attempt it myself, but I don't have the tools or time unfortunately :(

Wow Charles, they look damn good man. I agree with Suwidji and also appreciate how you have used the original light casings. Was it difficult to convert them to LEDs the way you've done? Might go down that track myself.

I've also been looking at a set from MARS Performance. Any opinions on how this set looks...

http://marsperformance.com.au/LED-Tail-Light-Nissan-R34-Skyline-Coupe-GTS-T-GT-R-GT-T-RB250DET

Also, Suwidji, how do you get that R34 banner at the bottom of all your posts? Would like one myself haha.

Thanks man :D

It's not so much "difficult", although I had no background in electronics lol, I had to learn about LED's and resistors. Just took a little bit of time, also getting the template right took a lot of time.

I had a pair of taillights from MARS, which is now on sale lol, they are pretty good, i actually didnt mind them, "East Bear style". But I now prefer my DIY Nismo style hehe.

Ah yeah, cool. How are yours in terms of brightness? I know the MARS ones are fairly bright but i prefer the Nismo style over the East Bear style. More aesthetically appealing to me. However, I do like the clear indicator section.

I compared them yesterday when I installed it, my DIY ones are definitely brighter than the MARS ones lol. And plus, I can choose whatever LED i want and whatever resistor I want to use to reduce/increase the brightness :P

At the moment, I'm using 12000MCD LED's, and when braking, they are 100% brightness, but when it's parkers, it's probably about 80% or so?

I also converted my centre brake light on my boot :)

Qest use the highest quality leds available in Japan hence it reflects on their price.

The lifetime on them is extremely long and highest quality.

They use the genuine Nissan housings fully refurbished and highest quality electronic parts available.

I know the owner well and if anything he goes overkill on making these.

I can get them for 10% off the Japanese retail price.

If you want info on purchasing them flick me a pm.

It's kind of a DIY job fellas. Got the LED ones off eBay (they're the same ones that daniels14a posted earlier) and then just heated them up removed the plastic covers and switched them with the OEM ones, sealed them back up. Done! :) I'm happy with how they turned out

Edited by shinobi_s14

shinobi, seeing your panel gaps makes me happy...that i'm not the only one with gaps in the back. arse cracks?

more on topic though, i have no intention of getting LED tails, i love the hot plate look. yesterday i just swapped out all the bulbs with new LED bulbs, and at night, damn, those red rings of sexy!

shinobi, seeing your panel gaps makes me happy...that i'm not the only one with gaps in the back. arse cracks?

more on topic though, i have no intention of getting LED tails, i love the hot plate look. yesterday i just swapped out all the bulbs with new LED bulbs, and at night, damn, those red rings of sexy!

lol i dont get it. you said you dont want LED's, but you just swapped out to LED's? Got a pic of them on by any chance?

shinobi, seeing your panel gaps makes me happy...that i'm not the only one with gaps in the back. arse cracks?

more on topic though, i have no intention of getting LED tails, i love the hot plate look. yesterday i just swapped out all the bulbs with new LED bulbs, and at night, damn, those red rings of sexy!

Bahah yeah I really needed to realign the rear bumper but haven't had much free time lately

Has anyone actually seen a genuine nismo or east bear LED tail light inside?

I had some in my car when i bought it but not sure if they're genuine or copy?

They're no cardboard DIY sh!t though , very good build quality so was wondering..

2nvqxoj.jpg

2ewmjjs.jpg

66534210152155376700063.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...