Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts available for pick up from Geelong. Postage for little things. Big things if you organise it

Engine

1) 10psi waste gate actuator. $20

2) Greddy turbo timer $40

3) 3" Split dump pipe and 3" front pipe $150

4) 3" decat pipe with bung for o2 sensor $30

5) Stock r32 dump pipe, Fit R33 R34 $10

6) Stock fuel rail with fuel pressure regulator $30

7) Coil pack loom $40

Body Parts

1) R32 GTR front bumper, Fiberglass, Bit rough, needs repairs but still in one piece $100

2) R32 GTR spoiler, Good nik. $90

3) R32 GTR rear guards/over fenders. Dmax style, makes a gts-t as wide as the GTR $150 (NEW)

4) 180sx top stage vented bonnet, Bit rough, $50

5) R32 Gts-t stock wheels x2 Good for burn out. $40

Misc Parts

1) R32 steering wheel, few rips $40

2) Nismo steering wheel copy $40

3) 25mm bolt on spacers (Pair), 2 studs are a bit threaded. $80

4) Adjustable camber arms (NEW) R32 gts-t or GTR, Rear. $60

5) R32 front control arms upper and lower complete with hubs. $50

6) R32 front disk rotors, Need machining, Heaps of meat $50

7 Auto gauge 52mm, Oil temp and oil pressure gauges with cups. $40 each (New)

Pics available on request. all prices ONO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359642-garage-clear-out-skyline-stuff/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

NEW PRICE LIST

Engine

1) 10psi waste gate actuator. $20 $15

2) Greddy turbo timer $40

3) 3" Split dump pipe and 3" front pipe $150 $120

4) 3" decat pipe with bung for o2 sensor $30

5) Stock r32 dump pipe, Fit R33 R34 $10

6) Stock fuel rail with fuel pressure regulator $30 $15

7) Coil pack loom $40 $15

Body Parts

1) R32 GTR front bumper, Fiberglass, Bit rough, needs repairs but still in one piece $100 $50

2) R32 GTR spoiler, Good nik. $90 $60

3) R32 GTR rear guards/over fenders. Dmax style, makes a gts-t as wide as the GTR $150 (NEW) $120

4) 180sx top stage vented bonnet, Bit rough, $50

5) R32 Gts-t stock wheels x2 Good for burn out. $40

Misc Parts

1) R32 steering wheel, few rips $40 $20

2) Nismo steering wheel copy $40 $20

3) 25mm bolt on spacers (Pair), 2 studs are a bit threaded. $80 $60

4) Adjustable camber arms (NEW) R32 gts-t or GTR, Rear. $60

5) R32 front control arms upper and lower complete with hubs. $50 $30

6) R32 front disk rotors, Need machining, Heaps of meat $50 $20

7 Auto gauge 52mm, Oil temp and oil pressure gauges with cups. $40 each (New)

Engine

1) 10psi waste gate actuator. $20 $15

4) 3" decat pipe with bung for o2 sensor $30

Still keen on these mate. :whistling:

Will pay for postage.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...