Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

so essentially there is no diffrence? only the half shafts are diff?..... so if i needed i could fit a ABS diff in my non abs car using my current non abs shafts?

Well I went the other way, I put a centre from my non-ABS 32 into my ABS wagon housing but had to use the 32s' half shafts as the wagons open centre half shafts were too small for the VLSD centre, I pressed off the ABS teeth and pressed them onto the non-ABS half shafts.

So if both centres are R200 VLSD units, either shafts should fit as there is no difference in length between the ABS and non-ABS shafts, the teeth are just a collar.

Edited by bubba

sweet so there is no difference... just the abs sensor collar for abs cars..... only asking coz there is a ABS diff available and i want to shim it up and put it in..... so for r33 the dimensions are the same abs-non abs no need for long tailshafts like the s-chassis

i always thought abs diffs were longer in the 'snout' so the tailshaft was different lengths between abs and non abs?? , so the pinion gear is longer in abs models??

If that model of car has the ABS sensor on the tailshaft side of things then probably yes, but if the model has the ABS sensors on the halfshafts, then no.

  • 1 month later...

hey can anyone give me some help?

I was in the process or swapping over a non abs shimmed diff from a s1 r33 into my r33 s2 (has abs)... we then realised the snout of the non abs diff housing was shorter.

If i were to swap the tailshaft from the s1 would it all be sweet?

Edited by Luke_GTS-T

R33 Non-ABS Diff is shorter

R33 ABS Diff is longer, with a sensor plugged into the side, has a cable coming out of it

R33 half shafts are the same in both. I believe you guys are getting mixed up with S15 and R34 diffs, the sensor is on the shaft output.. has a ring with grooves on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...