Rebuilding My Rb26 Need Clue ?

[OMGGTR]

Hi guys,

As im saving month my month im at 3500 dollars so far for my rebuild.

So during the save time im constantly asking different people / workshops for opinions and i tell ya is insane so far ive been mind ($#$%) several times and need answers !

small facts b4 i explain - Rebuild is being forged internally head work im doing myself at work just putting in valve springs for later cam install bottom end so far is being done at EDGE by barry.

1. I was told standard rods are fine for 400-450 awkw not to use forged items because standard have oil squirters and forged do not this causes oil starvation (increased ware) on the new items...

2. dont port head (not going to anyway) but was told alot of people who have have gone bakwards

question is i thought the oil squirters were bolted to the block and the pistons need to be rb26 specific to clear the squirter ?

am i wrong or ?

neway if any1 has a good idea about what rods to use please let me know so i can get em if this oil squirter crap is true lol thanks

[N1GTR]

Sure they were talking about oil squirters or were they talking about wrist/gudgeon pin oiling?

A lot of rods have double wrist pin oiling so it's much of a muchness.

[OMGGTR]

ye i debated with myself that lol na he was serious about this squirter thing not being installed on the forged items

[N1GTR]

Use someone else then.

[doo doo]

If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing...........

I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters.

Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed.

As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).

[Supa Steve]

If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing...........

I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters.

Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed.

As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).

good post with correct info.

[OMGGTR]

Ahh most helpful ! thanks doo doo , im geting the rebuild kit off hioctane has ne1 had experience with this kit ?

[doo doo]

not had any experience with this kit but my thoughts would be about the CP rings, I've heard of people having issue with them bedding in. You can get different rings to suit the CP's though I assume. If your power goal is around 400rwkw then you might not need the rods, if you wanted to track it regularly I'd be then considering them.

what else you got on the menu?

Edited April 8, 2011 by doo doo