Jump to content
SAU Community

Rebuilding My Rb26 Need Clue ?

OMGGTR

By OMGGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

As im saving month my month im at 3500 dollars so far for my rebuild.

So during the save time im constantly asking different people / workshops for opinions and i tell ya is insane so far ive been mind ($#$%) several times and need answers !

small facts b4 i explain - Rebuild is being forged internally head work im doing myself at work just putting in valve springs for later cam install bottom end so far is being done at EDGE by barry.

1. I was told standard rods are fine for 400-450 awkw not to use forged items because standard have oil squirters and forged do not this causes oil starvation (increased ware) on the new items...

2. dont port head (not going to anyway) but was told alot of people who have have gone bakwards

question is i thought the oil squirters were bolted to the block and the pistons need to be rb26 specific to clear the squirter ?

am i wrong or ?

neway if any1 has a good idea about what rods to use please let me know so i can get em if this oil squirter crap is true lol :) thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359815-rebuilding-my-rb26-need-clue/
Share on other sites
doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing...........

I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters.

Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed.

As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).

Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted

If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing...........

I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters.

Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed.

As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).

good post with correct info.

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted (edited)

not had any experience with this kit but my thoughts would be about the CP rings, I've heard of people having issue with them bedding in. You can get different rings to suit the CP's though I assume. If your power goal is around 400rwkw then you might not need the rods, if you wanted to track it regularly I'd be then considering them.

what else you got on the menu?

Edited by doo doo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Duncan
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...