Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I uploaded Nissan FAST here for the Nissan SKYLINE and GTR Google + page:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxDXWrNW4kySeW1qZVZCUFVlT3c&usp=sharing

You'll need all files and please read install Doc.

Got to step 5 and its comes up with box saying

Run-time error '339':

Component 'TabCtl32.OCX' or one of its dependencies not correctly

registered: a file is missing or invalid

Can any one help?

Thank to everyone pointing the way for basic Fast install but my s14 ADM vin is not recognised anyone have an idea of which of the other CDs I should be searching for as the drive flange I'm looking for comes in a few iterations?

BTW giong to download, just wondering which file/cd folder contains ADM data?

I uploaded Nissan FAST here for the Nissan SKYLINE and GTR Google + page:

Thanks - I've downloaded all files. After extracting the 5 part RAR file, I get iso disk images. There is a setup.exe file in each of the images, and they are all exactly the same size & a similar date / time stamp. - which one is the best to install? Are they for different markets (US & EUR) - if so what is each file? Each ISO file is quite different to the others.

Cheers

I uploaded Nissan FAST here for the Nissan SKYLINE and GTR Google + page:

 

Thanks - I've downloaded all files. After extracting the 5 part RAR file, I get iso disk images. There is a setup.exe file in each of the images, and they are all exactly the same size & a similar date / time stamp. - which one is the best to install? Are they for different markets (US & EUR) - if so what is each file? Each ISO file is quite different to the others.

 

Cheers

Any setup file should be fine. I don't remember having to setup multiple ISOs just one and used the main file to point to all the ISOs after installation.

The ISOs ARE FOR JDM vehicles including the Skylines. USA vehicles can be found on Courtesy Nissan's website (courtseyparts.com). I don't have the Eur ISOs. I apologize about that.

Any setup file should be fine. I don't remember having to setup multiple ISOs just one and used the main file to point to all the ISOs after installation.

The ISOs ARE FOR JDM vehicles including the Skylines. USA vehicles can be found on Courtesy Nissan's website (courtseyparts.com). I don't have the Eur ISOs. I apologize about that.

hi can i check...

u have the A1 etc rar files and the FAST2010disc1 etc rar files....are they the same? also when u click on info (within the program) what is the year of your databases? cheerios

slave cylinder and manual transmission illustrations come up with "illustrations cannot be found"

? :S

Do I have a strange VIN or something lol. Anyone got a 33 and been able to look at manual trans illustrations?

I was able to generate a manual transmission for a R33GTST without any issues.

I just used the search by parts function IIRC.

I would generate one for you but currently in Finland FTM so will have to wait until next year.

I uploaded Nissan FAST here for the Nissan SKYLINE and GTR Google + page:https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxDXWrNW4kySeW1qZVZCUFVlT3c&usp=sharingYou'll need all files and please read install Doc.

Hi Ruben.

You back in the states mate?

When I extract the RAR file (from the 5 part fast2010disks.partx.rar files), I get 7 different .iso files, as follows:

CA1001.iso

CAINF1001.iso

ELDVD1001.iso

EURINF1001,iso

GLDVD1001.iso

USDVD1001.iso

USINF1001.iso

Each of these iso files has a \FastPRG\Win2000\Setup\setp,exe (along with heaps of other files). These iso files are totally seperate to the A1, A2, A3, B1 & B2 isos.

My question is what are all these seperate isos for, and which one is the best to install?

When I extract the RAR file (from the 5 part fast2010disks.partx.rar files), I get 7 different .iso files, as follows:

CA1001.iso

CAINF1001.iso

ELDVD1001.iso

EURINF1001,iso

GLDVD1001.iso

USDVD1001.iso

USINF1001.iso

Each of these iso files has a \FastPRG\Win2000\Setup\setp,exe (along with heaps of other files). These iso files are totally seperate to the A1, A2, A3, B1 & B2 isos.

My question is what are all these seperate isos for, and which one is the best to install?

I think all of theses iso files are for the Canadian, European and US market. You may not want any of those because they do not have JDM listings.

hi can i check...

 

u have the A1 etc rar files and the FAST2010disc1 etc rar files....are they the same? also when u click on info (within the program) what is the year of your databases? cheerios

Honestly, I haven't used the program in some time. I do not currently have it installed. However, I have installed the program a couple of times in the past.

The 2010 program should be installed first. I remember using MagicISO for that. Once the program is installed you need to configure it and make the program load the appropriate Skyline CDs. I wanna say that I used MAGICISO to create the virtual drives for that as well.

Hi Ruben.

You back in the states mate?

Hey, mate. It's been a long time. glad to see that your builds is going so well. :-)

I recently installed a BNR34 MFD into my BNR32. Otherwise, everything is slow with my build.

I'm not in the states just yet but I hope I can pay a visit to Oz really next year.

When I extract the RAR file (from the 5 part fast2010disks.partx.rar files), I get 7 different .iso files, as follows:

 

CA1001.iso

CAINF1001.iso

ELDVD1001.iso

EURINF1001,iso

GLDVD1001.iso

USDVD1001.iso

USINF1001.iso

 

Each of these iso files has a \FastPRG\Win2000\Setup\setp,exe (along with heaps of other files). These iso files are totally seperate to the A1, A2, A3, B1 & B2 isos.

 

My question is what are all these seperate isos for, and which one is the best to install?

I believe I used the US or Canadian one per my preferred flavor of the English language. :-)

I think I installed in compatibility mode too.

The ISOs with the letters in front of them are for the JDM vehicles.

I don't have much need to look up numbers lately so I haven't installed it on my current system.

I was able to generate a manual transmission for a R33GTST without any issues.

I just used the search by parts function IIRC.

I would generate one for you but currently in Finland FTM so will have to wait until next year.

I can find the parts (in desc search) but the illustration doesnt exist for whatever reason..... strange

  • 1 month later...

Here is what I did and this works in windows 64 bit systems so no messing around with virtual windows setup which is a pain in the ass.

NISSAN FAST 2010 and A1, A2, A3, B1, B2 CDs

This will install on 32-bit and 64-bit systems.

http://depositfiles.com/files/c3dqowelq

(this will be approx. 1GB in size)

Instructions

  • Open the NISSAN_FAST_2010_A1_A2_A3_B1_B2.zip file.
  • Extract/Drag the 'NISSAN' folder to your local disk (E.g. C:\ drive).
  • Navigate to 'C:\NISSAN\FASTPRG\WIN2000\SETUP' and open 'SETUP.EXE'.
  • Click 'Next' a few times and complete the setup.
  • Navigate to 'C:\NISSAN' and open 'Nfset'.
  • Select the 'CD-ROM SETUP' tab and add all CDs from 'C:\NISSAN\CD' (A1, A2, A3, B1, B2) by selecting 'Browse' for each drive number.
  • This step is not necessary. In 'Control Panel' open your 'Fonts' folder. Click on 'Font Settings' and make sure 'Hide fonts based on language settings' is unchecked. While in Nfset, click on the 'ALL' tab and select 'MS Gothic' as the font and script to Japanese
  • Now open 'Nissan Menu' from the Start menu.

Hopefully I've explained this as easy as possible and didn't miss any steps.

Cheers,

Ants

I've been trying to download this for the past couple of days but it always gets to 50mb and stops downloading, does anyone have a torrent for this one as I'm using windows 8 and this one apparently works on windows 8, or should I just bite the bullet and pay the $11 premium membership and hopefully it downloads, thanks.

I've been trying to download this for the past couple of days but it always gets to 50mb and stops downloading, does anyone have a torrent for this one as I'm using windows 8 and this one apparently works on windows 8, or should I just bite the bullet and pay the $11 premium membership and hopefully it downloads, thanks.

You tried the link I posted for the files?

I just installed this last week so I know the files work.

You'll need to download MagicDisc, at least 1 2010 file, install via the setup file (I used windows 2k setup), decompress all the letter files into sub directories of the main FAST directory (i.e. c:\fast\A2), edit the NFS.EXE file to point to the sub directories where you decompressed the files, then start the program.

  • 3 months later...

Bit of a thread bump for anyone with the same issue as me (can't see geabox illustrations)

It looks like you can either get an R33 S2 Vin and use that, or click the disc icon on the top toolbar which lets you select what model you want to look at. When you go to R33 and go to the gearbox illustrations then you will see a menu asking you to choose what model you want to look at. Just go to RB25DET.MT.F5 that is 9501 model onwards. You will get the illustrations this way

I installed Fast on my new computer last night and while having a play I worked this out

I'm not sure if the original issue I was having was to do with having a Series 1 or what, but I'm 99% sure there is no difference in the S2 box so shouldn't have a problem

Hope this helps anyone having issues

  • 1 month later...

Here is what I did and this works in windows 64 bit systems so no messing around with virtual windows setup which is a pain in the ass.

NISSAN FAST 2010 and A1, A2, A3, B1, B2 CDs

This will install on 32-bit and 64-bit systems.

http://depositfiles.com/files/c3dqowelq

(this will be approx. 1GB in size)

Instructions

  • Open the NISSAN_FAST_2010_A1_A2_A3_B1_B2.zip file.
  • Extract/Drag the 'NISSAN' folder to your local disk (E.g. C:\ drive).
  • Navigate to 'C:\NISSAN\FASTPRG\WIN2000\SETUP' and open 'SETUP.EXE'.
  • Click 'Next' a few times and complete the setup.
  • Navigate to 'C:\NISSAN' and open 'Nfset'.
  • Select the 'CD-ROM SETUP' tab and add all CDs from 'C:\NISSAN\CD' (A1, A2, A3, B1, B2) by selecting 'Browse' for each drive number.
  • This step is not necessary. In 'Control Panel' open your 'Fonts' folder. Click on 'Font Settings' and make sure 'Hide fonts based on language settings' is unchecked. While in Nfset, click on the 'ALL' tab and select 'MS Gothic' as the font and script to Japanese
  • Now open 'Nissan Menu' from the Start menu.

Hopefully I've explained this as easy as possible and didn't miss any steps.

Cheers,

Ants

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I ran into a problem with Step 7. "MS Gothic" is not an option for fonts, and no matter what I pick, Japanese is not an option for the script. Fast is working, but most of the tabs are showing in Japanese characters. Any work around for this?

Thanks!

You have to download the font, but I could only find it on the Microsoft site and it cost money so I couldnt be bothered. Unless someone has a link to a site where you can get the write font

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...