Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have an R33GTST and apart from the high flowed units I was wondering which other 'out of the box' units would fit?

I have not a lot of experience with turbo installation, but what I got so far is that there are quite a few

T3-Flange Units out there.

For example this one:

3076R

This turbo has many options, but the 6 bolt mount for my Nissan is not listed. :(

So in reality how are these Turbos matched to the existing piping?

Would it be an option to get a used turbo elbow and then weld / machine some kind of adapter?

Or are these adapters available somewhere?

Many thanks ...

Edited by Torques
  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The honest easiest way is definitely a highflow, as stated above.

We would have no idea about your options in the UK, yet if you are not after a very specific setup you should just decide how much power you want, or how fast you want to go, then pick your turbo to suit.

For example if you were in aus and wanted sub 300rwkw with as little as hassle as possible you would simply buy a hypergear G2 or G3 turbo for 260 or 300rwkw respectively. Obviously these would net the results and save you alot of cash, spending the VAST amount more would net you the same result with a better outcome overall.

Overall implying drivability, spool etc.

Ideally you would want a forward facing plenum, otherwise the standard pipes get in the way of the 4" intake on the 3076 and it just looks messy in my opinion.

But these guys offer a 6 bolt rear housing :thumbsup:

http://www.horsepowe...IAB2/prod18.htm

Just seen that your in the UK, but there are places that do give the option so there might be one there if you ask around

Ideally you would want a forward facing plenum, otherwise the standard pipes get in the way of the 4" intake on the 3076 and it just looks messy in my opinion.

But these guys offer a 6 bolt rear housing :thumbsup:

http://www.horsepowe...IAB2/prod18.htm

Yeah I was originally going to get the 3076r with the 6 bolt rear on the stock manifold but I'm glad I went the whole hog in the end with the high mount exhaust manifold and forward facing plenum. It's about a trillion times sexier and didn't cost that much more.

_1019404Medium.jpg

Hello to OZ,

Thanks for the replies ..

I would be very happy with 300RWKW, and fancy fat torque over peak power.

Also I would like quick response (so 12PSI+ @3000rpm).

If I could find a used R34GTT turbine, it would be a good bases to high flow it using

a different turbo cartidge.

Cheers ...

I would be very happy with 300RWKW, and fancy fat torque over peak power.

Also I would like quick response (so 12PSI+ @3000rpm).

Specifically, 12psi @ 3000rpm with 300rwkw to boot is a tall order.

3000rpm is next to nothing and at those revs with that boost this turbo will still be feeling lethargic. Try to grasp that boost @ rpm wont = power nor response, so planning where you want to hit 12psi is next to useless. What you do want to plan is at what RPM you start making good power.

The general consensus for good response is 200rwkw @ 4000rpm. It is a slightly tall order from a 3076r in a reasonable cost effective setup, you will see most making the 140-180 mark. That sort of power and response can be experienced through a highflow, yet the torque and overall feel of the turbo will suffer.

I think you will keep being referred back to the highflow option more than anything else, yet make sure you pick a builder who has well documented results.

Hello,

Yes ... you are correct, high boost at low RPM and 300kw at the rear is probably asking for too much and maybe not possible with a single turbo.

But 200kw at 4000rpm sounds quite good to me.

And 2500-4500 is the range I use the engine most of the time..

I was told a recore with the 3076 internals would be something to consider.

The thing is that a high flowed turbo is not any cheaper compared to

an off the shelf unit.

Many thanks ...

Specifically, 12psi @ 3000rpm with 300rwkw to boot is a tall order.

3000rpm is next to nothing and at those revs with that boost this turbo will still be feeling lethargic. Try to grasp that boost @ rpm wont = power nor response, so planning where you want to hit 12psi is next to useless. What you do want to plan is at what RPM you start making good power.

The general consensus for good response is 200rwkw @ 4000rpm. It is a slightly tall order from a 3076r in a reasonable cost effective setup, you will see most making the 140-180 mark. That sort of power and response can be experienced through a highflow, yet the torque and overall feel of the turbo will suffer.

I think you will keep being referred back to the highflow option more than anything else, yet make sure you pick a builder who has well documented results.

Edited by Torques

yer but a highflow bolts straight on. off the shelf aftermarket turbos require a fair bit of modifying to fit

I agree its easier being a bolt on, but if you were to get for example, a 3076 with the nissan rear housing, you just need a T3 spacer plate , oil and water lines and some intake pipeing. so there isnt alot in it.

Ive just gone for a highflow because i care more about response, as soon as i get it together and back from the dyno i will put up some charts :thumbsup:

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

Is your bottom end stock rb25? Also how is your intake setup? 3" metal pipe with pod and AFM infront of turbo or do you have the AFM in the cooler piping?

Is your bottom end stock rb25? Also how is your intake setup? 3" metal pipe with pod and AFM infront of turbo or do you have the AFM in the cooler piping?

Stock bottom ended rb25 mate.

I got the 3 inch intake pipe going to my z32 afm which is connected to my stock airbox with a blitz panel filter. Then have a custom CAI going from the bottom of my airbox to a pod in my front bar

Stock bottom ended rb25 mate.

I got the 3 inch intake pipe going to my z32 afm which is connected to my stock airbox with a blitz panel filter. Then have a custom CAI going from the bottom of my airbox to a pod in my front bar

Sounds good man. Metal or silicone leading to your box? Can you PM me some pix?

Sound interesting ... :)

So you need a spacer for the T3 connector and modify the turbo elbow to match the 3076 exhaust side ...

Is the 3076 much wider compared to the standard turbo?

Who is selling this kit?

Some pictures/dyno would be nice.

Cheers ..

If you get a 3076. Do not get the Nissan 6 bolt housing. It is restrictive and plain garbage. To fit a 3076 with the proper Garrett housing requires:

Spacer plate ( so comp housing doesn't touch manifold)

Extended studs

Lines

Dump pipe

-all this comes with the kit and is not hard to fit up

Only thing you will need to do is get a 4-3 inch reducer and make up a custom intake pipe

It's well worth it

And for response? I'm hitting 18-19psi by 3500 rpm. On the 3076 with .82 rear housing

Sound interesting ... :)

So you need a spacer for the T3 connector and modify the turbo elbow to match the 3076 exhaust side ...

Is the 3076 much wider compared to the standard turbo?

Who is selling this kit?

Some pictures/dyno would be nice.

Cheers ..

Hey mate. Yea you need a t3 10mm spacer to make it fit. The turbo when next to a stock turbo looms huge.

Sorry don't know what you mean about the elbow? You talking about the bend after the compressor outlet or?

I'll get pics tomorrow but it looks VERY stock under y bonnet

Hey mate. Yea you need a t3 10mm spacer to make it fit. The turbo when next to a stock turbo looms huge.

Sorry don't know what you mean about the elbow? You talking about the bend after the compressor outlet or?

I'll get pics tomorrow but it looks VERY stock under y bonnet

This. :)

I dont know why people say 3076 is laggy. But then, comparing any turbo to a stock RB25 turbo its laggy.

I thoroughly enjoy driving Lithiums 300kw 3076 .82 R33. The extra "lag" actually makes the car quite nice to drive. Your not constantly making boost without trying haha. But if you want it, its not far away!

Plus.. the turbo spool noise is orgasmic. :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
    • No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.
    • Are there any other lighter flywheels that can be used with nismo coppermix twinplate system? Id like to gave the revs pick up faster than oem
    • RB20/25 covers don’t have threaded fasteners stock like RB26 covers. They are blind rivets so I will need to drill out and tap threads. I bought some M4x6mm button heads and will report back once done if I chose correctly length wise.    have also got some loctite 
×
×
  • Create New...