Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well im building my rb26 head and have ordered tomei 10.8mm lift cams with tomei type a springs, im just wondering how good the standard rb26 valve spring retainers are, if anyone has had problems with them failing or if i need to upgrade them. or wat upgraded ones are good to use. last thing i want is for it to drop a valve. cheers liam

Get the titanium retainers as well mate with the extra pressure of the upgraded valve springs you will split the standard retainers and i got the tomei type b valve springs and they come with the retainers.

  • 3 weeks later...

just get the supertech set up. double springs titanium retainers and good for 13mm lift. about 600 deliverd

+2

Went from another performance spring manufacture to super tech and literally went from 480rwhp too 596 rwhp.

Back to back with nothing else changed but the tune to suit th new springs that would actually work over 22 psi

  • 2 years later...

Old post, saves starting a new one

Il prob be changing my valve springs when I do my cams, I see a lot of brands like Brian Crower, hks, greddy etc that come without retainers, are the stock ones good enough for these replacement single valave springs?

Only looking at running poncams around 9.1lift

Still running standard valves but with new valve guides, seats etc

Edited by SiR_RB

To much seat pressure is not good. You need to know what it is you want first. Then build around that.

I dont see a need for so much lift. 10.5 and higher.

In short ro much seat pressure just loads up everything in line with to much stress.

Thats just my to cents.

But I guess I should have asked you what are your hp goal. Sorry

Most proberbly go type r poncams so around 250x9.1 lift,,,nothing extreme

Won't be going double valve springs as there no need for my choice of cams, just wanted to know if standard retainers will be fine with upgraded single valve springs

  • 1 month later...

Ok I got my cams now looking into valve springs

When do you need to run a titanium retainer?

How much is too much seat pressure? Is 80-90lbs seat pressure closed and about 180-190lbs open too much?

Will be running around 26-28psi boost and rev to 8200rpm

We have had GReddy springs with stock everything for years. 264 and a 272 with 9.7 lift. Used to rev it to 9500 and havent seen an issue after about 8000klms. Most of its life its spent on the dyno or the drag strip so its not being babied at all. We run 25psi apart from when its being driven to and from the dyno or drag strip ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...