Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a current drain in the boot, and I'm pretty sure the capacitor is draining my battery along with my boot light which doesn't turn off as we found out today.

Anyway, the capacitor, and both amps are in the boot and currently wired as shown.

My head unit has a faulty trigger out so it's bypassed, just looped it off accessory in.

Trigger wire goes to amp 1, then loops to amp2, then loops again to the cap.

They all share a common ground bolt connection along with the battery.

Power supply first goes to the capacitor as it has a nice fat terminal that accommodates 3 x 8mm wires, and star wires out to the amps.

A horrible pop sometimes comes out of the speakers when the stereo is switched on.

I guess I need to fit a 40amp relay somewhere in the wiring sequence shown, and possibly have them looping in the correct order.

Any help, appreciated.

cheers

post-25026-0-11581000-1301991189_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359902-wiring-problem/
Share on other sites

Yeah, the capacitor does require a trigger wire from accessory, otherwise it won't turn on.

Weird though, current still draws even though it's off.

A relay should sort it out, but I'm not sure where it goes in the sequence

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359902-wiring-problem/#findComment-5748570
Share on other sites

Conan

if the caps drawing current it may have developed an interal short , a relay between the batt and the cap will switch it out but your limiting the current flow cause it goes throught the relay, with the little terminals and the like, your gona create other issues. I'd disconnect the cap 4 now. First I'd yank that boot light and see how the battery goes.

the poping in the speakers, is cause there's a slight delay in the amps remoteline, that allows the amps IN the headunit to startup before the External amps are trigered,

2 options there

1 , take the remote line of the accesorys (back of the deck), and put a switch in . that way youl basicly turn on the key then the switch or

2, betta option, instead of a swtch as in option1 , put a 12V delay circuit in. I've seen a few on FleeBay, but if ya know anyone good with electronics they could whip ya something up. only needs around 1 second delay

or a new deck I supose

Cheers

Bundy

Edited by BundyBear
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359902-wiring-problem/#findComment-5752650
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...