Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 3076R Running Temps

GunmetaL

By GunmetaL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GunmetaL Enthusiast

GunmetaL

Posted
Posted

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359918-r34-3076r-running-temps/
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Transmission and oil cooler won't lower the water temperature...

100 seems rather high? My temp gauge sits at around 70-75 during everyday driving, doesn't make much difference what the outside temperature is. Gets maybe as high as 90 if I'm flogging it around. That's with a triple core alloy radiator though.

ltcree Contributor

ltcree

Posted
Posted

I've got a R33 with a 3076R and mine never gets that hot. It'll run around mid 80's to low 90's at the track on a 30+ degree day. All my cooling system is completly stock too. I would be looking at either the themostat, how far is it opening? The fan, not sure if 34's are still mechanical fans, but check your belt tension and fell how much air its blowing as the clutch on the fan may be not locking up. Biggest issue if it has a bigger rad is it using the cowling? If theres no cowling this can cause serious air flow issues and not draw enough air through the rad.

GunmetaL Enthusiast

GunmetaL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got a R33 with a 3076R and mine never gets that hot. It'll run around mid 80's to low 90's at the track on a 30+ degree day. All my cooling system is completly stock too. I would be looking at either the themostat, how far is it opening? The fan, not sure if 34's are still mechanical fans, but check your belt tension and fell how much air its blowing as the clutch on the fan may be not locking up. Biggest issue if it has a bigger rad is it using the cowling? If theres no cowling this can cause serious air flow issues and not draw enough air through the rad.

So should I give one of these a go? http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16888&cat=&page=2

How do i tell if the fan is locking up I just had a look and it spins quite freely

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You guys over there have stolen the good weather so no surprise something like this is coming up :)

Forget thermostats mate. Stock is fine.

What you need to do first is get the radiator out, give it a good flush and a refill with distilled water and so on. I believe you can get them flow tested too so this would be a good idea.

Also the FMIC could not really be flowing much air and blocking which will also cause issues.

If giving it a solid flush and so on does not work, then you'll need to invest in a decent radiator. By saying the one you have now looks as if it has stock header tanks, then i'd be dubious of it being aftermarket.

A decent 40-45mm ally radiator from somewhere like Race Radiators (a melb mob, just as an example)... Will almost certainly fix the issues.

HOWEVER don't go for the fix immediately, best to know what is the issue first.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Transmission and oil cooler won't lower the water temperature...

100 seems rather high? My temp gauge sits at around 70-75 during everyday driving, doesn't make much difference what the outside temperature is. Gets maybe as high as 90 if I'm flogging it around. That's with a triple core alloy radiator though.

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

My 2c =

Put a new thermostat (OEM) and a factory radiator in it. Im confident this will fix the issue.

As Ash said, intercoolers can be a problem. I had an older model JJR core on a car of mine a few years back and had all world of trouble.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

Stock Neo thermostats are 82deg

My 2c =

Put a new thermostat (OEM) and a factory radiator in it. Im confident this will fix the issue.

As Ash said, intercoolers can be a problem. I had an older model JJR core on a car of mine a few years back and had all world of trouble.

Ditto, as I've said in other threads, I had a cheapo china radiator and while it was nice and thick, it used to heatsoak horribly, tossed it in favour of a GTR radiator and had no more dramas.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well?

My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

It's stock as far as I know, I haven't put in anything aftermarket. Small chance that it has an aftermarket one in it from Japan but I wouldn't know for sure.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Your thermostat could be stuck/blocked, replace this first (it's the cheapest and easiest)

check-temps again

Replace the radiator with something that slides right in.

While you are at it replace all the water hoses. yep..ALL of them.

Have a beer and never worry again about over heating.

Hottest I've seen my car is 88°C when driving in heavy traffic in 40° days(R33) but R34 will get a few degrees warmer.

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Yeh 95 isn't that bad. With coolant and a properly pressurized system, you're no where near boiling point. I've seen my water temps hit 110 during a track day, have seen full on race cars reach as high as 160 degrees without damaging anything.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

No, it's not.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Edited by simpletool
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Isn't it every 10 degrees over the maximum coolant operating temperature halves the engine life expectancy? Not sure what that maximum temperature is on an R34, but it would surely be much higher than standard water boiling point.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it.

The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency.

Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • GTSBoy
      SR20 to cefiro

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...