Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 3076R Running Temps

GunmetaL

By GunmetaL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Buy yourself and r32 RB20 thermostat from Nissan. They are 76deg.

Cheaper upgrade than a nismo one.

I have one in my NEO as the running temp was around 90 deg.

Now it sits on 80deg

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)
Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties. new-engine.pdf

Edited by simpletool
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties.

Only over a certain temperature though. It doesn't double wear when it is perfectly within it's operating temperature. Running at 95 degrees compared to 85 degrees isn't doubling the wear on everything.

Scradly Community Regular

Scradly

Posted
Posted
Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

I find it difficult to believe that because they're running at this higher temperature - and designed to - that they're suddenly causing much much higher rates or wear and going through things like water pumps quicker.

Pulled my water pump out for 100,000km service recently (I have no way of knowing if it was previously replaced, sure) and it looked almost like brand new.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Bubba.....seriously. :/

I've been playing with RB's for a while now dude, and I am yet to see the issues you are stating. I'm not saying they DON'T happen, I'm just saying it's probably not as dire as you are making out.

As I agreed with above, if you're hitting 95deg after a quick blat to 100kmh then yes, you have a problem but it's not going to cause everything to fall apart from pitting and corrosion.

Basically, regular fluid maintenance (which coolant is a part of, and something everybody should be doing) will help everything live a (hopefully) long and uneventful life.

Ignore your fluid changes for several years, and yes, you will likely see a massive deteoriation in cooling system components. The lack of maintenance, even at normal operating temps, is going to do a lot more damage than running it hotter but changing fluids more often.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I only stated that the reason temps are higher now days is puerly to lower emissons.

Spot on.

And conversely, you get rather poor fuel atomisation at lower temps so unless your inlet tracts and combustion chambers have been designed to run at ~60deg, nobody should be using one of those low temp thermostats.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree, no need for low temps thermostats.

Look, I never meant that there is some dire problem. Just thought that since we are all driving 10+ year old cars then we should be aware of increasing cooling system corrosion (heater cores for instance). It is also a problem if you don't change coolant.

People can disagree with the science if they want, I was just giving some extra info.

Edited by simpletool
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

+1 I'd rather go with a genuine thermostat.

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

wut?

I already said no need for a low temp thermostat, and I didn't say chinese stuff is shit but as far as chinese made goods go you DO pay for quality. That is the only difference in chinese made goods, from the same factory you can have good or crap stuff, depending on how much you're willing to pay for the quality control. I deal with chinese manufacturers and fabricators a fair bit (albeit for much larger scale stuff) :)

Edited by bubba
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

who tuned the car?

what ecu? do you have a dyno sheet with afr?

might need to be richened up a bit to help keep combustion temps down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...