Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy yourself and r32 RB20 thermostat from Nissan. They are 76deg.

Cheaper upgrade than a nismo one.

I have one in my NEO as the running temp was around 90 deg.

Now it sits on 80deg

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Do you have evidence to back up your scaremongering?

I agree that if you're reaching 95deg after a couple of hard jaunts up to 100kmh there is an issue that likely needs to be addressed.

Telling people that reaching 95deg is OMG GOING TO REDUCE THE LIFE OF EVERYTHING THE COOLANT TOUCHES, is scaremongering.

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties. new-engine.pdf

Edited by simpletool

or chemistry :whistling:

I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though)

Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties.

Only over a certain temperature though. It doesn't double wear when it is perfectly within it's operating temperature. Running at 95 degrees compared to 85 degrees isn't doubling the wear on everything.

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

Thats why the NEOs run a higher temp thermostat. The hotter they run the lower the emissons are/ the better the fuel eco is, which is good for the environment but shithouse for performance.

Most modern cars now will run between 90- 100 deg for that very reason.

I find it difficult to believe that because they're running at this higher temperature - and designed to - that they're suddenly causing much much higher rates or wear and going through things like water pumps quicker.

Pulled my water pump out for 100,000km service recently (I have no way of knowing if it was previously replaced, sure) and it looked almost like brand new.

Bubba.....seriously. :/

I've been playing with RB's for a while now dude, and I am yet to see the issues you are stating. I'm not saying they DON'T happen, I'm just saying it's probably not as dire as you are making out.

As I agreed with above, if you're hitting 95deg after a quick blat to 100kmh then yes, you have a problem but it's not going to cause everything to fall apart from pitting and corrosion.

Basically, regular fluid maintenance (which coolant is a part of, and something everybody should be doing) will help everything live a (hopefully) long and uneventful life.

Ignore your fluid changes for several years, and yes, you will likely see a massive deteoriation in cooling system components. The lack of maintenance, even at normal operating temps, is going to do a lot more damage than running it hotter but changing fluids more often.

I only stated that the reason temps are higher now days is puerly to lower emissons.

Spot on.

And conversely, you get rather poor fuel atomisation at lower temps so unless your inlet tracts and combustion chambers have been designed to run at ~60deg, nobody should be using one of those low temp thermostats.

I agree, no need for low temps thermostats.

Look, I never meant that there is some dire problem. Just thought that since we are all driving 10+ year old cars then we should be aware of increasing cooling system corrosion (heater cores for instance). It is also a problem if you don't change coolant.

People can disagree with the science if they want, I was just giving some extra info.

Edited by simpletool

+1 I'd rather go with a genuine thermostat.

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

chinese parts do not always mean rubbish

your joking right? not there is a need for the op to get a low temp thermostat.

but where do you think most parts come from anyway, its a simple thermostat... most car manufacturers are probably using chinese made parts... its not a precision part

wut?

I already said no need for a low temp thermostat, and I didn't say chinese stuff is shit but as far as chinese made goods go you DO pay for quality. That is the only difference in chinese made goods, from the same factory you can have good or crap stuff, depending on how much you're willing to pay for the quality control. I deal with chinese manufacturers and fabricators a fair bit (albeit for much larger scale stuff) :)

Edited by bubba

Hey all I have just purchased a an r34 sedan car has a 3076r with all supporting mods (fmic, inj, afm etc)

Also has a "heavy duty" radiator.....it has standard top tanks but core looks to be about 40 mm thick (standard is around 15mm)

when driving normaly the temp sit in the middle of the of the factory gauge (my other standard r34 sits in the same place)and the aftermarket gauge which is in the top radiator hose sits about 100 but when I drive it a little bit hard ie full boost a few times up to 100km or so it heats up to about 110 120t is this normal to have quite vast temp changes with such little hard driving or am I being paranoid?

Im only worried because my old silvia had a similar set up but ac was removed and had a thick koyo radiator temps never went above 90 on a 30 degree day no matter how hard I drove it

should I look at getting

transmission cooler

oil cooler

alloy radiator ?

any imput would be apprecated thanks Ben

who tuned the car?

what ecu? do you have a dyno sheet with afr?

might need to be richened up a bit to help keep combustion temps down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...