Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi... i'm currently owning a mazda astina lantis 1998 . It looks new as hell and runs PERFECTLY fine , totally fine ! but i'm thinking of getting a skyline r32 gtst or r33 gtst, I cant decide between the two and i'm not sure about the petrol consumptions and etc ,etc, I would totally wouldnt want spending huge amount of money for repairs for such a old car, i want a skyline, but hopefully a reliable and a lasting one. preferably a none boosted one. My budget will be around 15-14k depending how much i can sell my lantis for. My first choice is R32 GTS-T as it consumes less petrol than the r33 , but r32 is really old .... so.. i'm really confused... help !! thnx !!

You will go thru about 55 litres of petrol (a tank) in 300 - 350 km if you drive normally or 400 - 450 km if you drive mostly on the highway.

An R32 does not consume much less fuel than an R33. The difference really is only 500cc of displacement, of which you probably make up by being more of a leadfoot.

For 15k you are really in R32 GTS-t territory, any R33's you can find for that much will be auto, non turbo, old and busted, or all of the above. You will be stretching it for a good R32 GTS-t aswell at 15k

Id say get together 18k and get a nice R32 or R32 with some minor mods, exhaust, performance panel filter, maybe an SAFC or an EBC.

I'm sorry but I don't think "skyline" and "not spending money" really go in the same sentence. Maybe you should just stick with what you've got. Don't want to turn you off too much as they're great cars -- but if your chief need is a tight budget, to be honest its not what I'd recommend.

And its not just added performance that costs, its maintaining performance that costs too. Keep in mind that your gonna pay a premium for any kind of replacment parts merely due to their imported nature.

As for the differences between a 32 and a 33, besides cosmetic differences and the small displacement difference i beleive the only real change is weight and a few tweaks to HICAS.

But i agree with everyone here so far, dont skrimp when it comes to your skyline, you'll only pay for it in the end anyway. Spend the extra 4-6k and make sure you get a good solid car. Otherwise you'll spend twice that in replacement parts.

  • 6 months later...
hi... i'm currently owning a mazda astina lantis 1998 . It looks new as hell and runs PERFECTLY fine , totally fine ! but i'm thinking of getting a skyline r32 gtst or r33 gtst, I cant decide between the two and i'm not sure about the petrol consumptions and etc ,etc, I would totally wouldnt want spending huge amount of money for repairs for such a old car, i want a skyline, but hopefully a reliable and a lasting one. preferably a none boosted one. My budget will be around 15-14k depending how much i can sell my lantis for. My first choice is R32 GTS-T as it consumes less petrol than the r33 , but r32 is really old .... so.. i'm really confused... help !! thnx !!

HI mate, I have an R33 4door for sale for $14990, its been a very reliable car and I am selling it regretfully. I am more than happy to talk honestly to you about the car if you are interested. You can check it out in the for sale section and if you like what you see then give me a call on 0419123314

In my opinion go for the 32 it is a beautiful car for your $$$

Make sure you get it checked thoroughly before making a full commitment, and you don't have to spend much on a stock on in good nik.

Usually you have to change things like bushes, clutches, and sometimes a gearbox although that occurs in any car. When I first bought my 32 I wanted just to keep it simple and enjoy it, although now I want turbo, injectors, ecu etc...

If you go for a 32 try to get a 93 one. Parts are also cheaper than r33's.

take it easy

Mark

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't be concerned at all, other than to suggest having them flow tested when you receive them to confirm they are reasonably similar, and then put the highest to lowest flowing ones in cylinder 6,1,5,2,4,3
    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
×
×
  • Create New...