Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as the title states my catchcan vent blocked and the 32 started spewing white smoke... I get about 2 psi of boost and I'm wondering if the pressure has blown out my turbo seal...? If anyone could shed some light on this for me so I know where I'm at I'd be very appreciative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359985-blocked-catchcan-vent-killed-my-32/
Share on other sites

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

Not entirely true.

Increased pressure in the crankcase will prevent oil returning from the turbo. However it is more likely you will see the smoke as a result of it in your intake first.

The can wasn't plumbed back into the intake... also I noticed, under the bonnet, oil dripping on my plastic sump guard from the turbz area... I hav'nt looked at anything yet but was also wondering if this would've done something to the engine? only drove a few hundred meters when I noticed the smoke

Have seen first hand what excessive crank case pressure can do to turbos, which is what you would have had with blocked breathers...as was mentioned above, oil in the turbo cant return to the sump and builds in the turbo core, it then pushes past the exhaust seal, in my case, the exhaust seal was shagged or had moved according to turbo builder and I had sh1t loads of white smoke, like you...

have you fixed the catch can?

take the dump pipe off the turbo and see if there is an evident oil leak from the seal. and same on the front, if you cant see any oil there, put the intake back onto the front and start the car to see if smoke starts pouring from the turbo exhaust, if it does turn the car off and see if you can see oil in the exhaust of the turbo.

let us know how you go

Yep, exhaust wheel will look 'wet' and you probably wont see this until the turbos off but oil will be weeping down the bottom of the front side of the exhaust housing, let us know how you go...mine wasn't caused by blocked breathers but excessive piston to bore clearance...same result - excessive crankcase pressure and a turbo that couldn't drain..

Edited by NSNPWR
  • 3 months later...

Well... new turbo ( already had ) and all exhaust and ceramic coating etc and still getting slight smoke out back from oil... maybe valve seals blown out..?? any help would be appreciated, dying here... pinch.gif

yeah I had some smoke after installing new turbo and ceramic coated dump etc went away after a few heat cycles, I assumed it was just burning off shit from new turbo and new coatings..

another time needed to put a restrictor in the oil feed of the turbo, because with Jun pump was pumping too much oil and pushing past the seal, hence blowing white smoke..

hopefully just one of those reasons for you :thumbsup:

???

How could a blocked catch can put pressure on the turbo's bearings?

The white smoke would be oil spewing back into the intake from the catch can... There's no way the bearings would "blow" from this...

If you seal the crank case gases in it will pressurise and can burn lots of oil, I've seen it happen before. Don't see how it would do anything to the turbo though.

I found oil in the mouth of the compressor side when I was putting a boost controller in and had to remove stuff to get to the actuator... hoping its from it sitting around for so long..?? stretching maybe but dont want to think I have to pull it all off again... also I have taken it for a couple runs before that and it was showing white at the end of the runs and a hint of blue due to not being mapped..

Edited by partyboy73

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...